Elizabeth's gone raw

As I've mentioned in the past, my best friend is vegan. So when a raw food vegan restaurant opened in DC, she was the obvious choice for a dining companion. Elizabeth's Gone Raw is unique in many ways. It is only opened for dinner one night a week. The menu is a fixed tasting and changes weekly. And everything served is entirely vegan and raw. While I was confident one could produce a high end vegan menu, I was curious to see what would happen when the entire act of cooking was thrown out the window. And I left not only satisfied but highly impressed!

The dining area is stunning; set in a row house and decorated in old world classic french style. Too much champagne and you might actually think you're in Versailles! Fortunately this wouldn't be a problem for us as the server permitted us to split a single wine pairing for a nominal additional charge. And excellent compromise which ensured we got the complete experience while still being able to drive home. While we waited for the serving to commence, we were treated to a basket of home made Kale Chips. Rather than bakes, these had been dehydrated, and the difference was noticeable. The chips were crunchy and maintained their texture as well as actually tasting like kale. This is not easy, as homemade chips go limp after a day or so, and the preservatives in the mass produced chips really affects the flavor of the green.

Before long, we were ready to begin. Please note that as I walk you through the courses, the menu is styled to reflect the dish's inspiration. So a course might be described as having meat, but this is purely a conceptual reference. First arrived an amuse of Roasted Cauliflower, with nigella seed, capers, mint and lardo. I never cease to be amazed by the complete transformation cauliflower undergoes when roasted. It's an entirely different vegetable and it is delicious. The accents rounded out the bite, the caper imparting a welcomed hint of brine. 

 

Next arrived a Tomato Saffron Soup with strawberry, carrot and fennel. This course was particularly interesting, combining several ingredients with very distinct flavors. That said, it was well balanced and unexpected. And a chilled soup is always a welcome break on a summer night!

 

When I saw the Crab Stuffed Squash Blossoms on the menu, I could not wait to try them. I love squash blossoms fried in the Italian style but hadn't tried them raw before. And I couldn't even imagine the vegan equivalent of crab. And while I can't honestly say that I know what it might actually be, I can tell you it was delicious, and actually did invoke crab with each bite. The presentation was stunning, and the accompanying bed of trumpet mushrooms, squash, and pecans provided much needed texture, while the green tomato vinaigrette added the right amount of bite.

 

To cleanse the palate we were presented with a Watermelon Hibiscus Sorbet with olive oil and sel gris.

Light and refreshing, it was the perfect segue into the main course; Kohlrabi & Heirloom Beet Ravioli with celery, basil, macadamia, sunflower shoots, spirulina, and wild garlic. Since pasta obviously requires cooking, it was paper thin slices of beet and kohlrabi which provided the pocket for the filling. It was an innovative approach and it worked well. The textures and flavors were so pleasing, I didn't miss the pasta or the cheese filling in the least.

Finally it was time for dessert: Blueberry Cheesecake. Once again, I was amazed that something so decadent could be created not only without dairy, but with out baking! The raw crust of coconut, almond and cashew was a perfect texture and considerably more flavorful than the tried and true graham cracker crust.

While the entire meal was delightful in it's own right, it was astounding when you think it was create with two very restrictive parameters. And while I am not sure I'll be trying something so ambitious myself, I will definitely be returning to Elizabeth's!

 

Picholine

As you might have noticed, I eat a lot of chef's tasting menus. When I go out, I want to be wowed; I do not want something I could have made at home. And the tasting menu allows the chef to show what he or she believes is the best they can do. And while I've head a lot of good meals, its been a while since I had one that knocked my socks off. That is until Le Cuillère and I visited Picholine on Manhattan's Upper West Side. 
 
Uncharacteristically for NY, we didn't need collateral for a reservation, and the dining room was not uncomfortably packed. This made for a relaxing meal with the full attention of the staff. Picholine offers four dining options: a three course, five course, eight course, and ambitious twelve course menu. Apart from the twelve course menu, one welcomed feature was the ability for the diner to select from several options for each course. We decided on the eight course menu with the wine pairings, and relaxed over a series of delightful amuse bouches.

Le Cuillère and I selected some of the same courses, and a few different courses for variety. I began with the Smoked Sturgeon Caviar Panna Cotta, accented with beet carpaccio and house made rye crisps. The dish arrived in a porcelain covered bowl, the top lifted to reveal a beautiful a ribbon of smoke and a visually stunning presentation. And it was divine; the cold smoking imparted a whole new flavor to the caviar which paired exquisitely with the silkiness of the panna cotta. Le Cuillère selected the Crab and Avocado Roulade with Pickled Daikon, Citrus-Espelette Emulsion. In his characteristic understated style, Le Cuillere smiled and nodded appreciatively; I knew he was happy with his selection. He remarked on the pleasing contrast in texture between the crab/avocado and the daikon.

For the next course we had two choices of foie gras. I selected the Seared Style with Pickled Green Strawberries and Aged Balsamic Vinegar. Le Cuillère opted for the Foie Gras “Shabu Shabu” with sweet and sour duck bouillon. My version was very well executed, with the tartness of the pickled strawberries and the vinegar playing beautifully off the fatty liver. That said, I found myself looking longingly at Le Cuillère's bowl, where a pressed foie gras medallion was doused with a pitcher of steaming broth. The heat of the bouillon melted the foie gras, creating a silky soup the smell of which was intoxicating. Although I did find myself questioning my choice (in no way because of the quality) I suppose the dilemma of which foie gras to pick is an enviable struggle to have.

The pasta course arrived at the table and I knew I had done well this time. I ordered off the menu selected that day's special, a Hand Made Cavatelli with newly arrived Black Truffles shaved table side. A pristine bowl of delicate pasta was placed before me, while our host produced a tray of truffles and a shaver. By the time he finished I couldn't even see the pasta. So needless to say I was in heaven. The noodles were perfectly done, and the light pecorino sauce perfectly highlighted the truffles. Le Cuillère selected the Corn Risotto with Wild Mushrooms, Summer Truffle, and Pecorino. I had been intrigued by this combination, and the dish worked perfectly. The sweetness of the corn, along with the texture of the kernels worked well as the base of the risotto, while the truffle and cheese added a hint of earth and nut which made the dish both simple and wildly complex.

Neither of us could resist the Diver Sea Scallops with Asparagus Variations, Morels, and vin Jaune Sabayon. This dish was exceptionally well thought out. Consisting of a single scallop, it was so decadent, we found ourselves slicing it as though it were a filet. Morels and asparagus are a natural pairing and worked perfectly with the sweetness of the bivalve. 
 
Shockingly Le Cuillère resisted the option of steak, and we both chose the Thomas Farm Squab with Foie Gras Pain Perdu, Tokyo Turnips, and Fig-Chocolate Sauce. And once again, Picholine succeeded in taking a combination of ingredients which shouldn't work together and produced a wonderful course. The fig-chocolate sauce paired well with the gaminess of the meat. The foie gras rounded out the texture while the turnips added that needed hint of bitterness which kept the dish from being too rich. 
 
For the cheese course, Le Cuillère let the fromager select several samples from the cart, presented with accompaniments. I opted for the Spring Brook Farm Raclette. The fresh farm cheese was presented on a puffed wafer with maderia powder. A perfect two bit course bursting with freshness. Just enough to satisfy the desire for cheese without the heaviness of a platter. The cheese selections were thoughtful and very well balanced, with a clear eye toward showing the range of selections available should either of us choose to continue exploring that aspect of the menu.

By this point I realized I was so adsorbed with the food, I had forgotten to take pictures throughout most of the meal! Fortunately I remembered in time for the first dessert course, a Meyer Lemon Mousse with Strawberry Textures, Pistachio Financier, and Catskill Provisions Honey Granita. The presentation was so surprising I had to capture it. And it was every bit as delicious as it looked! Rather than a pot of mousse, the delicate ribbon allowed the diner to incorporate all the flavors and textures of the strawberry, pistachio, and granita.

The final course was a Dark Chocolate Brownie with Minted Pea Ice Cream, Bacon Meringue, Sweet Pea Crumble. From the moment I saw this I was intrigued; who would put peas with chocolate?! After the first bite however, I found myself wondering how it was I've never had peas and chocolate before. The brownie was only slightly sweet, and the depth of the chocolate was a brilliant foil for the brightness of the peas and mint. The combination allows the heaviness of a chocolate dessert transition easily to the lightness of summer. 
 

Dessert concluded, we relaxed over espresso and handmade chocolates and petit fours. The service was impeccable, attentive but not intrusive. The wine pairings were carefully selected and perfectly matched to each course. The quality of the food was not only exceptional, it was innovative original and artistically presented. If you are looking for a true culinary experience in NY without the hoopla that goes with it, make a point of adding Picholine to your list.

Seared Scallops Shitake Bok Choy and Coconut Rice

Hot summer days seem to beg for Asian cuisine and seafood, so try this out as the temperatures climb.

Rice: While I love sticky rice for desserts, in this recipe I prefer jasmine rice for the texture.  Prepare according to package directions, but substitute half of the water with coconut cream.  If all you have is coconut milk then use it exclusively and omit the water.

Shitake and Bok Choy:  Heat seseme oil on high in a wok or saute pan.  Add 2-3 cloves of garlic.  Add one cup sliced shitake and saute until the mushrooms start to soften.  Add the leaves of 4-5 baby bokchoy. In a small bowl combine 2 Tbsp seseme oil, 1/4 C soy sauce, 1/4 cup mirin or rice vinegar, and Siriacha to taste.  Add to the vegetables, combine and heat until liquid reduces.

Scallops:  Heat seseme oil over medium high heat.  Add scallops. As the meat starts to become opaque, the bottom should release and allow for an easy turn.  It will be approximately 2-3 minutes per side.

Plating:  Add rice.  Top with vegetables and scallops. Drizzle remaining sauce.

Cooking Alaturka

Several years ago on a trip to Istanbul, I had the good fortune of enjoying lunch at Cooking Alaturka, a delightfully intimate restaurant and cooking school located in the historic section of the city. So when I found myself back in Turkey, I made a point of having a more hands on experience. The instruction is conducted by the owner Eveline, a European Expat who has lived in Turkey for many years, and Feyzi, a turkish chef. The menu rotates regularly; when I attended, we prepared the following dishes:

• Yayla çorbası – Hot yogurt soup with dried mint, cumin and lemon
• Zeytinyağlı taze fasulye – Runner beans cooked in olive oil with onion
• Kabak mücveri – Zucchini pancakes with white cheese and herbs
• Karnıyarık – Eggplant stuffed with meat and bell peppers, with bulgur pilaf
• İncir tatlısı – Walnut-stuffed dried figs cooked in clove syrup
  

The class size is limited so that everyone gets a true hands on experience. For my class there were

three of us in the kitchen, so everyone had plenty to do! Eveline and Feyzi walked us through the steps for each course offering tips and guidance. Everyone was expected to participate, and for nearly 3 hours the five of us worked in sync, dividing up the labor for each of the dishes. The preparation wasn't hard, but it was very time consuming. There are few short cuts in Turkish cuisine. The final product was worth the effort, however, and at the end we sat down to enjoy a fabulous meal. If you find yourself in Istanbul, I highly recommend setting aside some time to take a course, or at the very least have lunch or dinner. But if Turkey isn't in your future, I've included Eveline's recipes below. Hopefully you can bring a little Ottoman flair to your part of the world!

Yayla çorbası

“Meadow soup” or “Hot yogurt soup with dried mint”

Serves 6-8

½ cup medium grain rice (pirinç), washed and drained

8 cups lamb or beef or chicken stock (kuzu/dana/tavuk suyu)

½ cup milk

1 cup thick Greek-style half-fat yogurt (yoğurt)

juice of ½ lemon

1 ½ tablespoon flour (un)

2 egg yolks (yumurta)

½ teaspoon black pepper powder (toz kara biber)

½ teaspoon cumin (kimyon)

1 teaspoon salt (tuz)

1 ½ tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon dried mint (kuru nane)

1 tsp red pepper flakes (kırmızı biber)

Prepare stock by boiling lamb bones or other for one hour and then straining them out. Add milk to stock, salt and, once boiling, the rice.

Beat the yogurt, lemon juice and egg yolks with the cumin and black pepper in a bowl. Add the flour and mix well.

Melt the butter in a separate pot and add about half of the dried mint and red pepper flakes. Add the other half directly to the stock. Once butter is golden-brown, add to the stock.

Pour a little of the hot stock into the liaison (binding) mixture, mixing well, keep pouring more till it is liquid enough to pour back into the main pan. Stirring quietly yet continuously, bring to the boil over a low heat and continue cooking for another few minutes.

This soup is best served the same day but keeps well if wanted. It will thicken considerably however the next day and the rice may get a bit soft.

Zeytinyağlı taze fasulye

Green runner beans cooked in olive oil with onion, garlic and tomato

This simple yet refreshing dish is part of the “zeytinyağlı” family of vegetables cooked in olive oil. A pinch of sugar is traditionally added to balance the lemon juice, but be careful not to add too much. Beans and certain stuffed vegetables (including the classic dolma and imam bayıldı) are prepared the same way. Best is to let the vegetables cool slowly in their cooking liquid, which is why some are better made one day ahead. The beans are best the same day though. They are served at room temperature, but they are also wonderful (luke-) warm.

Serves 4:

450g / 1 lb green runner beans (taze fasulye), washed and trimmed

1 medium-sized onion (soğan), cut in half and chopped

2 cloves garlic (sarımsak), chopped

4 tbsp olive oil (zeytinyağı) (Extra Virgin preferred)

2 tomatoes (domates), skinned and diced in medium sized cubes

1 tsp sugar (şeker) (just enough to balance the lemon juice)

300ml / ½ pint water (the liquid should be about half-way the beans)

juice of ½ small/medium lemon (limon)

2 tsp salt (tuz) (about twice as much as sugar)

1 bunch of fresh dill (dereoto), roughly chopped

Trim the ends of the beans and cut them in two if very long and then in two lengthwise. If you are using French beans or haricots verts, leave them as they are, but still trim the ends off. Sprinkle a layer of chopped onion, garlic and tomato over the bottom of a large empty pan and add a layer of beans, more onion, garlic and tomato, and repeat till all ingredients are finished. Pour over the olive oil, water, lemon juice and add the salt, pepper and the sugar.

It can take up to 45 minutes, but start checking the consistency of the beans after 30 minutes. They should have a light bite to them still. Once cooled off, divide the roughly chopped dill over the beans and mix in when ready to serve, taking the beans out of the liquid with tongs. 

Kabak mücveri

Zucchini (Courgette) patties with herbs and cheese

Serves 4-6:

2 big firm zucchini/courgettes (kabak), seeds removed and grated with their skins

1/2 bunch of spring onions (taze soğan), chopped finely

4-6 eggs (yumurta), depending on size and the batter’s consistency

3-5 tablespoons plain flour (un)

8oz/200g white feta-type cheese (beyaz peynir), soaked in water if very salty, and crumbled

Large bunches of dill (dereoto), flat parsley (maydanoz) and mint (mint), chopped finely

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (kırmızı biber)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sunflower oil (ayçiçek yağı) or corn oil (mısır yağı) for frying

Yogurt, mixed with garlic crushed with salt in a mortar en pestle

Cut each zucchini in half lengthwise after taking the brown end piece off, making sure to have a piece of stem on each side. Holding your knife in a low angle, cut out the bulk of the seeds (too watery) but not too much, because then the zucchini becomes to thin to grate. Hold it on its side so you can both skin and flesh and in a 45 degree angle to the (medium-size) grater. Make long strong movements to get long strips. Turn every so often to do the same thing on the other side of the half so that in the end all your have left is the stem with nothing on it.

Squeeze the excess water out of the grated zucchinis, if necessary.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the flour to a smooth batter. Add the cheese, herbs, red pepper, zucchini and the finely chopped spring onions. Season with a little salt and pepper. Let de mixture rest for minimal 10 minutes, preferably in a lukewarm place.

Heat a little sunflower oil, just enough to cover the base of a frying pan. Drop a small ladle full of the zucchini mixture into the oil, repeat until the pan is filled, and fry the blini-size pancakes until golden-brown on both sides.

Drain on kitchen paper, if necessary, and serve hot (preferred) or cold, with the garlic-yogurt on the side.

Karnıyarık

Eggplant stuffed with minced meat (“Split belly eggplant”)

An Ottoman dish that became a home-cooking favorite (Every Turk’s mother makes the best!)

Serves 4:

4 medium-sized eggplants (to fit on one plate), stems trimmed and skin peeled zebra-style

2 tomatoes, 1 skinned and cut in cubes, 1 sliced for decoration)

1 green bell pepper, cut in strips for decoration

1 green bell pepper, cut in small cubes (brunoise)

1 red bell pepper, cut in small cubes (brunoise)

1 onion, chopped finely

2 cloves of garlic, chopped finely

250g minced (or hand-cut) meat (lamb and/or beef, mixed)

1 tsp salt, freshly (coarsely) ground black pepper

½ tbsp red chili flakes (Turkish chili)

½ tbsp tomato and/or bell pepper paste

Sauce:

2 cloves of garlic, chopped finely

1 tbsp tomato paste

Red chili flakes to taste

2 glasses boiling water

A little oil

Place the partially peeled eggplants on a baking tray, brush with sunflower oil (or any oil with a high cooking temperature – peanut, canola, safflower, grape seed…) and sprinkle with salt. Place in a pre-heated oven at 180 degrees C (350 F). Cook for about 30 minutes till browned yet not burnt and cooked all the way through (press to feel resistance). Turn around towards the end of the cooking process. Remove and leave to cool a little.

Meanwhile, sauté the onion and garlic in some oil, add the minced meat (if cut by hand, beef first, lamb later) and once seared, add the bell pepper cubes. Cook a few minutes and then add the chili flakes and black pepper. Add tomato and bell pepper paste, cook another few minutes and then add the tomato cubes and salt, cook a little more. Leave to cool a little as well.

Lay the eggplants with one open side up and cut a slit superficially without cutting through the bottom or the end. Use convex side of spoon to press eggplant flesh down and divide meat mixture over the eggplants, stuffing it in gently and thus enlarging the eggplants. Decorate with green pepper strips and tomato slices.

Sauce: Heat some oil in the un-rinsed meat pan; add whole peeled garlic cloves, and a little later tomato and red bell pepper pastes. Cook a few minutes and then add boiling hot water and salt to taste. Pour over eggplants, about 1 cm (½ inch) high. Place back in the oven and cook for 10 minutes, until the decoration is cooked.

Bulgur pilaf: Melt some butter (or oil) in a pot and add finely chopped onion, red and green bell pepper cubes, dried mint, chili flakes, tomato paste, while stirring and cooking a bit. Add tomato cubes and boiling water and once boiling again add the bulgur (2 cups of water to 1 cup of bulgur). Add salt to taste. Cook for 20 minutes.

İncir tatlısı

Walnut-stuffed figs in syrup

Serves 6:

12-18 dried figs (kuru incir)

100g walnuts (ceviz)

½ lt / 1 cup water (su)

250g / ½ cup sugar (şeker)

¼ lemon (limon)

12-18 cloves (karanfil)

Prepare a syrup by bringing the water, sugar, cloves and lemon (squeeze the juice out and throw in the peel as well) to the boil.

Meanwhile, stick a little knife into the side of a fig and cut through to a little beyond the center, then turn the knife in a way that a little less than half of the fig gets opened on its side (big enough to stuff a walnut half inside). Stuff the opened fig with half a walnut (or the equivalent in pieces), the bulbous side of the walnut under the stem of the fig. Close back up, making the sides stick back to each other. Repeat procedure with the rest of the figs.

Add the figs with their stem up to the (just covering) boiling syrup. Simmer for about 30 minutes. Turn them mid-way the cooking process and then turn again about 5 minutes before the end, to give them some color on each side. Take off the heat and let cool in the syrup, then transfer figs on plate, leaving behind the syrup. Decorate with ground pistachios and / or grated coconut. Serve at room temperature, if wanted with kaymak (heavy Turkish cream) on the side (although that is meant to balance, when the figs are much sweeter than we make them in this recipe). 

A blast from the past-- WD 50 in NYC

So as I was going through my archives looking for a restaurant I discovered I have a ton of stuff I never posted. One of which is an outing at the spectacular but now defunct WD-50 on the lower east side.  I took Brian there for his birthday 3 years ago. Sadly I now don't remember every course but I do perfectly recall the pho with foie gras. The broth had that incredible spice I find all the time here in Thailand but is nearly impossible to find state side. I've posted the photos in reverse order. Why I can't say. But still worth sharing! 

Brussels: Beyond Moules and Frites

 I've been fortunate to have some truly amazing meals.  Naturally a lot of factors go into what elevates a meal from good to great.  My recent dinner at Comme Chez Soi in Brussels however has assumed the lead for ranking of best meal to date.  

Located at the corner of a small unassuming square, Comme Chez Soi keeps a very low profile for a Michelin two star restaurant.  Inside however, it's a deeply exquisite and very personal experience from the moment you enter the door.  The dining area is small; only 12 tables make up the room.  As a result, you receive extremely personalized attention from the staff.  And because in true European fashion of not rushing through a meal, this also means (at least on a weeknight) tables do not turn over and once in you're there for the night.  Even ordering off  the ala carte menu will take a good 3 hours to get through, as we discovered when we elected to just have a light meal. But the experience was so wonderful it was hard to call an end.  

We began with a glass of champagne while reviewing the menu.  I tend to lean toward the indecisive side when confronted with a menu, and narrowing down my choices took quite an effort.  The menu was unique and impressive, feature a wide selection of not often seen ingredients.  Finally, with the assistance of the staff we reached a decision and let the rest of the meal unfold. We were presented with a variety of amuse bouche to begin.  One of the key details for me is pacing during a meal. and Comme Chez Soi did this masterfully. 

We finished at a leisurely pace when the first course arrived. I selected the Goose liver with gin and rice pop pearls and a reduced fig vinegar. with it the sommelier paired a French sauvignon blanc.  It was heaven.  Served with simple toast the the flavor of the foie gras really shined through.  The texture was perfectly creamy and the aspic of gin and balsamic made a wonderful contrast.  The wine pairing was spot on; the perfect combination of roundness and acidity that held up to the liver and cut through the fat.  My companion selected the Potato mousseline with crab, shrimps and Royal Belgian caviar, white oyster butter with chive. With this the sommelier selected a vintage champagne.  I had merely a taste of the caviar which was sublime, but I can say that he was grinning like an idiot throughout the entire course. And needless to say, that's not typical. 

For the main course, I opted for the Roasted young partridge with vine leaves and autumnal garnishing. This was my first experience with the bird; I was astounded by the depth of flavor. Roasted to perfection in a single serving cast iron dish, the meat was juicy while the skin was brown and crisp. The vine leaves provided a welcome crunch, and wild mushrooms and squash rounded out the dish. My companion selected the Pheasant with champagne with autumnal garnishing. Another perfectly done bird with a similar preparation; however I preferred the gamier flavor of the partridge to the more delicate pheasant. While reviewing the menu, both dishes were described as featuring a “second service” the meaning of which was not immediately clear at the time. So we were delighted to learn that because our selections were prepared in individual crocks we got what amounted to a second helping of the course. Forgoing the tasting menu suddenly seemed like a wise choice! 

 

Yet despite our best efforts, the slope leading to the cheese course was only too slippery. And with the staff's excellent recommendations we found ourselves enjoying a glass of 1944 port and a marvelous selection of dairy. While I love cheese in all its forms, I am continually amazed at the wide range in quality. Artisan cheeses are amazingly more complex and travel through cheese-producing countries is a constant reminder of this fact. And because its hard to let a meal this good come to an end, we choose to brave dessert. While everything sounds tempting, we both select a lime souffle with mojito granita. Served in individual ramekins, the souffle was light and airy with a subtle hint of citrus. The granita along side tingled and delighted the palate with a more intense lime flavor. 

 

As we lingered with expresso and petit fours, there was no doubt we have been treated to a world class culinary experience. What elevated this meal in my mind however was the impeccable service and attention to detail. I've had wonderful food that was somewhat diminished by both being rush and also completely ignored. But it is a very special place that makes you feel like you are the only table in the restaurant without being smothering. Comme Chez Soi struck the perfect balance, and the result was an evening I won't forget.

Alba Truffle Festival

My attachment to truffles has been well documented in this forum. And for a truffle lover, there is no greater event than the International Alba White Truffle Fair-- a 7 week celebration of this small Italian town's claim to fame. The Alba white truffle is generally considered to be the king of truffles. Truffles come in various shapes and sizes, but the white truffle of Alba tends to be the smallest and the most delicate both in terms of flavor and durability. Now in its 82^nd year, the festival highlights all the best of Piedmonte cuisine-- to include Barolo wine, charcuterie, cheese, oils and of course the truffle-- to the world. 

 

Events are held throughout the small town, and include lectures, movies, book readings, hikes, parades, and sporting events. The heart of the festival, however, is the truffle market. A huge covered event space where one can get up close and personal with truffles, as well as the other local delicacies. To say it was complete sensory overload does not do justice to the experience. And much like going grocery shopping on an empty stomach, I knew I would accomplish nothing until I got something to eat. Happily, on offer was a very basic selection of pasta and eggs for a very reasonable price, unless of course you elected to add a heaping mound of freshly shaved truffles for an additional 40 euro. Which naturally I did, because really, why drive all the way to a truffle festival if you aren't going to eat truffles? Paired with a glass of Barolo, my simple bowl of miniature sausage stuffed ravioli in a simple butter sauce was elevated to new heights by the impressive blanket of truffle which adorned it. My traveling companion elected to have his truffles atop sunny side up eggs. We found a free spot at a standing table and did not speak for a good 20 minutes.

Our case of truffle fever momentarily abated, we wandered the aisles. The array of food was truly dizzying; all local small producers of their wares. A specific local cheese, Testun al Barolo a white sheeps milk cheese cured in local Barolo wine took my breathe away. Numerous small vineyards whose wine you wouldn't have a prayer of finding outside Italy provided samples of their labors. 

But the main attraction is the truffle hunters selling that mornings find by the gram. Each morning the Truffle Commission inspects and approves all truffles sold at the Alba truffle market, so the buyer can be assured of the quality. And you will pay for that quality. But never fret, there is an ATM conveniently located to help facilitate your cash only transaction. After prodding and sniffing truffle after truffle, I selected two small black truffles and one small white truffle to accompany me back to America. And while they did not last long, they did help to enrich numerous meals!

Dining with Future Chefs in Istanbul

Perhaps it's the romantic in me, but I love the idea of eating at a cooking school. New chefs, perfecting their craft. And the ever present possibility that while you won't know it at the time, you'll be eating something prepared by the next big thing. Granted, sometimes its not perfect, but the desire behind the plate makes up for the occasional inconsistencies. While in Istanbul, I made a point of visiting Enstitu, the training restaurant for the Istanbul Culinary Institute. The menu changes monthly and utilizes those ingredients that are in season. While there is an ala carte option, I took advantage of the 6 course tasting menu and wine pairing; a steal at roughly $50.

The meal began with the traditional Turkish starter of cold yogurt soup with wheat berries and chick peas. The dish was contemporized with a yogurt foam, and hummus topped crostini. This is a dish I've always loved, and it's executed beautifully. The wheat and chickpeas add great texture to the thin yogurt base. The crostini provides a bit of welcomed crunch. 

Next is a sous-vide artichoke with carrots, fava beans and topped with a goat cheese mouse. The artichoke was perfectly done, and the accompanying vegetables brought color and texture to the plate. I found the mouse wildly unnecessary in this dish however. The sharpness of the cheese-- it tasted almost like a blue-- overpowered the delicate choke. I quickly relegated mine to the side of the plate. The pairing with DLC's Sutaniye was well thought out, however, and its bright notes complimented the dish nicely.

The duck ravioli in a duck broth with oyster mushrooms arrives at the table. This dish was delicate and lovely; the pasta was well made, and the duck was moist. That said, I'll get my primary criticism out of the way now, because it applies to everything else (except desert). As a whole the food was wildly under seasoned. A little bit of sea salt and perhaps some herbs, peppercorns, etc, would have gone a long way to help the flavor. So while the mechanical execution was good, the taste just didn't pop. And at the end of the day, that's what its all about. The dish was paired with a Turkish white, NLC's Narince. Similar to a viongier, the bite of the wine helped to pull the rest of the dish together. 

My favorite dish was the Seabass encrusted with potato “scales”. The fish was perfectly cooked and the addition of the potato added a new element of texture. The addition of a little salt helped to bring out the flavor. The accompanying artichoke cream and roasted red pepper and rocket pesto beautifully incorporated the elements of summer into the dish. A glass of Sarafin Chardonnay added extra complexity and played perfectly off the fish and vegetables. 

The final savory dish was an oven baked lamb shoulder with mini eggplants, onions and tomatoes served over a green wheat pilaf with lamb jus and sweetbread. While I enjoyed the pilaf and veggies, the lamb was my least favorite part of the meal. I would my porition had a little too much connective tissue, and the overall flavor of the meat was a bit harsher than I typically care for. The accompanying DLC Okuzgozu, a dry red with heavy pepper notes, stood up well to both the meat and the jus-soaked pilaf. 

Finally, it was time for dessert. A plate of various miniatures, including a house made ice cream, tiramisu, fruit mouse, and profiterole with chocolate sauce. Each was well done and beautifully presented. I didn’t realize they made the iconic lion head soup terrines in miniature, but now I'm determine to find them! The pairing of Safir was lovely; a lite but not cloying amount of sweetness hard to find in a dessert wine.

So while I would have encouraged a little more just of seasoning and herbs, the overall meal was well executed, and certainly a great value for the price point. Plus who knows.... the next Top Chef Istanbul could be plating your meal!

Thai Banana Crepe

I love Thai street food.  But I seldom visit the dessert carts. On my most recent trip to Bangkok  however I could not help myself.  And for a bit of Thailand at home, I share the receipt with you....

The street vendor from whom I ordered this used a pre formed crepe dough which she the spun out almost like a pizza.  For the purposes of this receipt however I'm using standard crepe batter, but poured a tad thicker.  I've used Tyler Florence's basic crepe batter for years and love it:

http://www.tylerflorence.com/?p=887

Make crepe dough. Let rest for an hour.  Pour dough into a crepe pan or flat bottom skillet.  Meanwhile chop one medium sized banana.  Beat with one egg.  Pour the mixture onto the crepe.  Begin to fold the crepe over on itself into a square.  Flip the crepe to sauté on all sides.   Add butter if needed.  Slice crepe into bite sized pieces.  Drizzle with condensed milk and a dash of turbino sugar.  To be truly authentic serve on paper and eat with a tooth pick. 



Culinary Education in Rome

If you are looking to learn a little more about food and wine, Rome is an excellent place to get an education. On a recent trip I decided to update my knowledge of Italian wine and food with a couple classes. It was time well spent, and provides excellent insight into the regional dynamics which still hold Italy in sway.

Fabiolous Cooking Day. When doing my research, I was intrigued by this program because they offered an option to do the class in Mazzano, a medieval town on the outskirts of Rome. It seemed like an excellent opportunity to see a bit more of small town Italy. Our class of eight met our instructor in the city , and from there she drove us to the site, stopping at the local markets along the way. Our lesson for the day was to be based on the available ingredients. Winding our way through the narrow alley ways of the town, there came the inevitable part where we were forced to abandon the vehicle and continue on foot. The class was held in a charming old flat with a large kitchen. I am not sure if someone lived there, or if the decorations were for our benefit. Rather than a standard school house kitchen, it felt like cooking in someone's home and that made the experience significantly more enjoyable.

When taking a one off style of class you never know what you are going to get. Sometimes, its primarily a demonstration where you're lucky to pick up a knife. In very rare cases, each individual or pair prepares each dish and eats their individual results. The most common, and the format followed here is that the group works collaboratively, with every one working on specific elements that get combined into a family style meal at the end. On the down side, if you like to cook you don't the opportunity for hands on every dish. That said, particularly in smaller groups everyone gauges how much they want to do, so it is largely up to you if you want to be the teacher's pet or stand in the corner drinking the wine. And for those recipes that you don't get hands on, paying attention and taking good notes will help you to recreate it on your own.

And since I did try to do as much as I could and take good notes, I am going to recreate those for you here. These are not official recipes from the school; they are based entirely on what I did and wrote down. So if something doesn't work out, and you know you aren't the culprit, blame me. Everything was incredible so when you are in the mood for a real Italian feast, I highly recommend this. And its a perfect excuse for guests! One note: I was not aware of how different even common preparations differed from region to region. Our instructor was Roman so we learned all of these recipes according to how she traditionally prepared them. One fascinating detail is how romans cook with garlic; they don't eat it. If garlic is in a dish, its added as a whole clove then removed. And some dishes, such as the Bruchetta, don't include it at all. So as with everything in the kitchen, make it to your taste. If you want garlic, put it in there. Just don't tell that to a Roman!

Bruchetta in the Roman Way

Slice a loaf of fresh bread. Rub the sides with garlic. Toast in the oven or broil depending on your level of patience/attentiveness. Meanwhile, dice the freshest tomatoes you can find. Tear up a handful of fresh basil (I like to use a lot so I have at least some in every bite). Drizzle with very good olive oil, add a pinch of seasalt. Combine at let sit at least 30 minutes; an hour is better. Given the simplicity of this dish, the quality of the ingredients will make the results vary wildly. So splurge.

Lasagne with sausage mushrooms and cream

Sauce

This uses a Bechemel sauce as a base. So melt about ½ stick of butter over medium low heat. Slowly add in flour stirring to make a Roux which will be a paste like consistency. Starting with 2 cups, slowly ad cream, stirring consistently. The sauce will cook on low hear for about 30 minutes. DO NOT BOIL IT. If it seems to thick, add more cream, if it seems to thin, reduce longer or add more flour.

Filling

For the mushrooms I'd stick with cremini or button.about 1lb. Saute in oil, season with salt/pepper. Remove the casings from your preferred sausage variety (I like spicy pork here) break into bits and add to the mushrooms. Continue until sausage is cooked through. Add to the bechmel and combine throughly.

Pasta

Depending on your level of ambition make it from scratch, or use pre-made. If you are lucky enough to find fresh pre-made lasagna, you get the best of both worlds. If you chose to make it from scratch do so according to your favorite standard pasta recipe. You WILL need a pasta machine for this, so do not attempt it otherwise. You can roll that dough for days and not get it to the desired thinness. Regardless of which type you use, remember that you must cook the noodles first!!

Assemble

Into a 13x9 baking dish add enough sauce to coat the bottom; not slathered, but enough so the noodles don't stick. Add a layer of noodles, a layer of sauce, and a layer of shaved Parmesan. Repeat for a total of at least 3 layers, and up to six. Top with a final layer of noodles. Bake at 350 for about 35 minutes. It should be golden and bubbly. Keep in mind, because of the nature of the sauce, this is not going to be a big thick slab of noodles and ground beef. It might seem a tad on the thin side. It's supposed to be. Remember, this is only one component of the meal!

Ravioli stuffed with Zucchini and Ricotta

Filling

Dice 3 regular sized zucchini. Saute with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat until soft. Remove from hear, combine with 1c Ricotta and 1c Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper.

Pasta

No way around it; it needs to be fresh. And yes, you are going to need a pasta machine. You can try to eke it out by hand, but it will be very hard to get it thin enough and the ravioli may be a little more like pierogies.

Assemble

If you are working off in tact sheets from a pasta maker, place a large teaspoon of filling at an even spacing on the sheet. Cover with a top sheet; then cut out the individual ravioli. Seal the ends with an egg white wash. Place into gently boiling water; remove when they start to float. These are lovely in a butter and sage sauce, or if you have left over filling, create a sauce my adding a little left over pasta water to the desired consistency. Stir. Plate the ravioli and top with the sauce.

Balsamic Chicken with Roasted Potatoes

The use of chicken thighs in this dish gives a more robust flavor. You can of course use breast meat if you prefer. Start by removing the skin and deboning the chicken, then slice the remaining meat. Place equal parts balsamic and cider vinegar into a bowl and half the amount of oil; a spoon of sugar, a pinch of salt, rosemary and garlic. Add the chicken, toss well. Let sit for at least 30 minutes. Heat a skillet over medium. Add the chicken with the marinade. Cover and cook until chicken is tender and sauce is reduced; approximately 20 minutes.

For potatoes, peel if desired and slice into rough chunks. Coat with oil, salt, pepper, rosemary. Roast at 375 for 45 minutes or until tender.

Cavatelli with Tomato Sauce

For the pasta, combine 2 parts flour to 1 part water. Combine, then knead by hand until the dough becomes elastic. Roll between the hands into a tube; finish rolling by hand on a clean surface. It should look like a pasta snake. Starting at one end, cut into chunks approximately every ½ inch. Using the middle and index fingers of the non dominate hand, press downward on each piece with almost a flicking motion. This should put a curve into the pasta. Boil til done and strain.

For the sauce, Slice onions and pancetta or bacon. Saute until the onions are soft and the pancetta starts to crisp. Add white wine, and diced tomato. Lower heat and simmer, allowing the flavors to combine. Add pasta to the sauce. Toss.

Marinated Peaches

Peel and slice 6 ripe peaches. In a bowl toss with 3 spoons brown sugar. Cover with white wine. Chill 2 hours.

Vino Roma. With the summer heat wave, I find myself cooking a lighter menu. And when it's well over 100 degrees, the last thing I want to do is open a full bodied Zinfindel. So I've abandoned most of existing stock in favor if Italian wines. The problem being that I know little to nothing about them. Many of the varietals are different form those grown in the US and apart from the language barrier the labels are a dizzying array of appellations and designations I've never understood. At least before I went to Vino Roma for a bit of education. The course is held in a small but modernly outfitted tasting room a few blocks from the sprawl of the Forum. The owner is also our instructor for the session; a Turkish expat who now calls Rome home. She has selected for us 6 wines to explore; 3 red and 3 white ranging from various regions across Italy.

With a largely North to South orientation, we learn that it is the region which determines the personality of the wine, more so that the varietal of the grape. Some grapes are only grown in certain regions whereas others may be found throughout the country but vary significantly based on the climate where they are grown. Italian wine falls into 4 categories: Table wine; IGT; DOC and DOCG. Table wine is the lowest classification and does not have restrictions based on varietal or locality. IGT graded wines are typical of the specific region from where they hail. DOC wines have even a more rigorous classification narrowing the wine to a particular village. DOCG wines are the most restrictive, with the wines hailing from an even tighter geographic area, and not exceeding specified yields.

It's been a long time since I've gone through the formal ritual when I've done a tasting. And it's immediately enjoyable to slow the pace and step mindfully through the process. Often times we rush to the first sip, and it really does add to the enjoyment of wine to get each sense involved. Our somellier makes us articulate what it is we notice about the wine. For me, I immediately begin to think of each wine in terms of the food I'd pair it with.

We began with the Zamo blanco 2011 a blend of Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, and Sauvignon Blanc by Le Vigne di Zamo vineyard in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region. It was acidic, with hints of pineapple and asian pear on the nose. Heavy mineral and grass on the palette. We then moved on to a 2010 Trebbiano d'Abbruzo by Cataldi Madonna. A full round body with mineral on the nose, as soon as I sipped it I envisioned pairing it with the traditional roman pasta of pecorina, pancetta and lava beans. Next was a 2008 Chardonnay from Planeta vineyards in Sicily. This was unlike any chardonnay I've tasted, Although it had hints of oak on the nose, it turned briny and mineral on the tongue. I thought instantly of a dish with capers and olives to compliment it. Moving on to the reds, we began with a 2006 Ciabot del Re, a Dolcetto by Piemonte's Brovia vineyard. The wine had a light body, and I detected a nose reminiscent of damp earth and rosemary, and I thought it would stand up well to duck or goose. The 2006 Toni a Multepulciano from Cataldi Madonna boasted a similar roundness to it's white counterpart. Mushrooms and damp leaves on nose dissolved into black pepper on the finish. A delightful counterpart to a roasted pork or lamb dish. Finally another wine from Planeta, the 2010 Plumbago from the Nero d'Avola varietal. I fell in love with this wine. It began with heavy dried fig on the nose, and a quality of almost slightly too ripe fruit. It was like no wine I've ever tasted. It could pair easily as a counter to a heavy meat dish or as a compliment to something sweet. And while finding quality Italian wines outside of Italy can be a challenge, I discovered that my perennial favorite, Eatly, carries and excellent selection, to include Planeta happily enough!