Culinary Tour of Nairobi

Tell anyone you're going to Kenya and the response is invariably the same: “Oh, you must go to Carnivore!” The only restaurant for which Kenya is internationally known, Carnivore is a Churrscari style restaurant located just outside the Nairobi National Park that gained fame decades ago for serving on spits the animals you'd just seen frolicking in the park. Needless to say, that is no longer the case. Today its more akin to Fugo de Chao than Marlon Brando's dinner party in “The Freshman.” Fortunately for the hungry traveler, however, Kenya boasts a range of cultural influences. So I decided to visit a broad cross section for a better sense of what Nairobi has to offer.

Thai Chi- Asian food is quite popular in Kenya; options for Indian, Sushi, Chinese, and Thai abound. Located in the Sarova Stanley, Thai Chi does an incredible job recreating Thailand in the heart of Nairobi. The décor is upscale and flawless in its detail. The table setting includes all the traditional condiments one would expect at a proper Thai establishment. We start with an order of spring rolls; I loved that they were nearly mini adaptations, but found them a little over cooked. The Papaya salad on the other hand was quite good; the julienne vegetables crisp and the the dressing light and balanced. I selected the vegetable stir fry, and was pleasantly surprised with the result. The composition was an excellent variety and everything was fresh; not a canned or wilty veggie to be found. The sauce was a combination of light and dark soy that was well balanced and not at all gooey. It wasn't quite up to my taste in terms of spice, but with the array of Thai spices and chilies on the table I was able to satisfy my desire for extra heat.

Talisman- In the outskirts of Nairobi, Talisman occupies a secluded bungalow in the Karen district. A popular haunt of expats from across the spectrum, Talisman offers a welcome respite from the congestion of the city. There's a lively bar area in the front; dining in the rear over looking a central court yard.With winter on the way there was a bit of a chill in the evening, so small individual fire-pits were placed by the cafe tables. The venue also doubles as an art gallery, featuring original works by local artists. The menu features quite a bit of British standards, with a sizable portion of ethnic favorites from Thailand, India, and the Mediterranean thrown in. Having visited Thai Chi earlier in the day, I decided against some of the thai dishes and opted to select a few small plates. I was intrigued by the paw paw salad, which was described as a fresh slaw in a light vinegar based dressing. I had no idea what a paw paw was, but I was excited by the possibility of something new. When it arrived, I discovered to my amusement that paw paw is papaya, and what appeared before me was a replica of the green papaya salad I had enjoyed earlier in the day. Ah well. Fortunately it's a favorite of mine, and frankly, was better than I've had at many Thai restaurants. The Lentil Falafel was an interesting and welcome take on the classic. Substituting the lentils for chickpeas produced greater texture variations in the patty and the addition of cardamon gave it a bit of a kick. The Feta and Coriander samosas were exceptional. Wrapped in a wonton wrapper rice the traditional heavier dough provided a wonderful crispness. Yet miraculously the feta and coriander filling was perfectly fresh; not hint of melting or sogginess. Paired with a sweet tomato chutney, it was the ideal light evening snack. I capped off the evening with a pot of lemon grass tea, and was thrilled to discover they actually used fresh lemon grass steeped in a french press something I've only seen done in Thailand. As the evening wore on more accents and languages filled the air. Talisman was clearly an international meeting spot and it was interesting to see the hodgepodge of people in Kenya, while enjoying a truly wonderful meal in a very peaceful setting.

Utamaduni-- While in Nairobi, I utilized the services of Tour Africa Safaris to see some of the sites, and I would heartily recommend them should you ever find yourself in Kenya. During a midday excursion, we had just finished a visit to the Giraffe Sanctuary and were ready for lunch. Our driver took us to an out of the way spot off a bumpy dirt road, which we never would have otherwise found. It also boasts a very extensive shop of high end souvenirs, and clearly derives its business from the tourists who frequent the area's game parks and attractions. While spots of this nature can be hit or miss, Utamaduni was a very pleasant surprise. Tables were set up in an outdoor courtyard area, surrounded by trees and flowers; our table was positioned next to a bird feeder which attracted a host of companions throughout the meal. I began with a garden salad, which proved to be a delightful medley of vegetables accented with chickpeas. I then took my chances with the Vegetable curry. During the construction of the railroad, an influx of Indian immigrants (also British subjects) came to Kenya to lay the tracks. As a result, Indian influences are highly prevalent in Kenyan cuisine. I've shied away from Indian food over the years, but it became fairly apparent that I was going to have to take the plunge, particularly if I planned to keep vegetarian for most of the trip. So plunge I did, and this was an excellent pool in which to jump. I typically have associated Indian food with being very high in oil. But this wasn't at all; it was heavy on vegetables with the sauce was robust clinging to the veggies and rice instead of forming a slick coating. Sitting with in the sun with a cold Tusker, I began to think I may have to reevaluate my premises....

Tamarind Nairobi- The Tamarind Restaurant group manages several restaurants in Kenya, to included the previously aforementioned Carnivore. The Nairobi location of Tamarind however specializes in seafood and is reported to be the best restaurant in the city flying in its stock daily from the coast. So naturally, I had to check it out. The décor is a bit dated, but the menu more than makes up for it. While we reviewed our options, the waiter stopped with a tray containing some 10 kinds of homemade bread. I selected a bread twist and a pumpernickel roll to help assist my decision making process. The selection and preparation of seafood was truly impressive, and it took a while to narrow down my options but my guiding premise was to get something I couldn't get at home. I elected to start with the tree tomato salad. I had no idea what a tree tomato was, but I was determine to find out! Spoiler: It's pretty much a tomato. And while that might normally have been a source of disappointment, the presentation ensured that this tomato was like nothing I've ever had. The tomato had been poached to remove the skin, shocked to stop the cooking and keep it firm, and then dusted in cacao. It sounds weird, I know, but it somehow worked. Presented along side an arrangement of beets, blood orange, and avocado puree, it was an extremely inventive dish and not what I expected to find. For the main event I ordered the Kenyan fresh water tilapia prepared swahili style. The fish was lightly grilled, then topped with a sauce of coconut milk and tomato. The combination of flavors was lovely, and paired very well with the delicate white fish. When a meal is this impressive, you simply have to order dessert. We opted for the trio of crème brulee: vanilla, espresso, and Amarulla served in individual mini ramekins. Heaven. Each one was a delight, but I'd have to say the espresso was my favorite. A little camomile tea, and I'm ready for bed.

Blanco- Located in the Galleria Shopping area in the outskirts of Nairobi, Blanco specializes in a modern take on local cuisine. The contemporary atmosphere is a pleasant contrast to the dusty side streets, and I order a martini while I peruse the menu. I select the Saladi ya Mboga, alight salad of cucumber, carrots, onions, lettuce with fresh lemon juice dressing. The ingredients are basic, but so fresh that its perfect in its simplicity. For the main course I opt for the Mboga Swahili, mixture of vegetables and potatoes and arrowroots in coconut milk cooked the coastal style. The stewed vegetables were perfectly tender, and the curry style sauce was flavorful and delicious. The dish was heavily garnished with cashews, however, most of which I opted to remove. Along side I decided to try the Sima, a brown or white polenta prepared from maize meal or millet commonly known as Ugali. Unlike traditional cornmeal polenta that is popular in the west, this was extremely dense and did not pair well with the dish. But alas, if you don't try you don't know....

The Exchange Bar- There are many bars in Nairobi, and a great many of the in hotels and clubs throughout the city. And while I did not do an extensive survey, the Exchange bar in the Sarova Stanley is worth commenting on. The oldest hotel in Nairobi, the building formerly housed the country's stock exchange and this theme is prevalent throughout. The décor is quintessential British colonial style; dark wood, comfortable leather chairs, and vast network or swinging paddle fans adorning the ceiling. It's exactly the sort of place that makes you crave gin. Despite being in a hotel, the bar was overwhelmingly dominated by locals relaxing after a day or work or out for a special occasion. Live jazz completed the mood and made it a favorite spot to start or end the evening.



Pasta Provencal

Who doesn't love to curl up on the couch with a bowl of pasta?  Particularly after a long run, I find myself craving some healthy carbs.  Something flavorful but not heavy.  So I came up with this delightful alternative.

Prepare whole wheat spaghetti according to package directions.  Meanwhile, in a saute pan toast a handful of pine nuts.  Once toasted remove from the pan and set aside.  Strain pasta once al dente.

Put saute pan over medium heat.  Add pasta.  Top with olive oil, minced garlic, sundried tomato, capers, seas salt, red pepper, and herbes de provence.  Warm through while tossing.  Serve.

When in Sri Lanka....

Formerly the center of the spice trade, Sri Lanka floats amongst the cultures of South Asia, yet is uniquely its own. Blending elements of Indian, Malay and Indonesian cultures Sri Lanka creates a unique experience, but is still struggling for its own identity. My reaction to my experiences in Colombo and its environs are somewhat mixed; I want very much to like it but the extreme air and noise pollution at times made this a challenge. That said, I did manage to find some gems which I am pleased to share with you here. 

Barefoot Cafe- Hidden off a back alley way Barefoot is an oasis in an otherwise conjested city. An extensive network of art and craft galleries, Barefoot also boasts a charming cafe in an outdoor courtyard. The menu is more continental than local cuisine, but had an impressive cross section of choices. I started with a plate of hummus and vegetables. While the hummus was a tad on the bland side the veggies were perfectly ripe and crisp. A welcome surprise since ordering raw vegetables can at times. I then moved on to a pasta dish which was one of the specials of the day. Crisp herbs and veggies in a light sauce, it was a great meal for the heat. It is the ambiance however, that makes Barefoot a worthwhile destination. For lack of a better description, its exactly the sort of place you hope you find when you're traveling. I could easily lose hours sitting in the shade with a cold Tiger beer and a good book.

Crescat Boulevard- As is typical for most of Asia, shopping centers boast a host of culinary offerings. I found myself paying multiple visits to Crescat. At Roots, the juice bar, you could quite literally get any fruit or vegetable you could think of run through a juicer. And the results were always excellent. I lament missing out on Avocado juice, and will remain on the look out for future opportunities. The remained of the food court boasted several good Indian spots, including an all vegetarian stand, traditional Sri Lankan “Tennessee” chicken, and a hot dog cart that was positively terrifying in the possible array of toppings.

Geragama Estate Tea plantation- I've been on a lot of beverage tours over the years. As an avid tea drinker however, I'd never been privy to the process that transforms a simple leave on a tree into the elixer in my cup. Until now. Stepping out of the car at Geragama, I'm nearly knocked over by the heavy aroma of roasted tea that fills the air. Its glorious. Stepping in side, we are greeted with a pot of tea to sample before embarking to see how it came to be. Ceylon is of course known the world over for its tea. Geragama is a raw manufacturing site; its teas are used as the base for blends developed by the well known “Ceylon” labels. Geragama does not sell this raw tea commercially; it is only available under the plantations own label at the processing center. Once we finish the tea, our tour begins with the arrival of baskets containing newly harvested tea leaves. The leaves are plucked by hand to ensure only the bud and the two youngest leaves are plucked. The plucked leaves are then weighed in, and first quality inspection is made. The leaf is then moved to the factory where they are withered using large blowers. The next step in the manufacturing process is cutting the leaves which releases the juices and begins the fermentation. After fermentation is completed, the leaf is fired, to lock in the flavor, to dry it and to improve the keeping qualities. Descending into the drying room truly is like walking into an oven on the decent. And while heat fortunately rises, its not that much cooler at ground level. Once the leaves are dried they are sorted based on color and particle size of the tea: Orange Pekoe (O.P); Pekoe (Pek.); Broken Orange Pekoe (B.O.P.); Broken Pekoe (B.P.); Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings (B.O.P.F.); Flowery Orange Pekoe (F.O.P); Flowery Broken Orange Pekoe (F.B.O.P.); and the Dust . Of this a small amount of tea remains for sale at the plantation; the vast majority is shipped of the the distributors to be bagged or blended into an ever increasing variety of tea. The quality was obvious, and very much worth the extra attention. I'll never see my basket of tea leaves in quite the same way.



Italian Style Guacamole

Is there anything better than a perfectly ripe avocado in the summer time?  Of course not.  But hard as it is to believe, Mexican does get boring after a while.   I devised this little creation so I can have Italian and still have my guac too.

Italian Style Guacamole

As with all dishes comprised of few ingredients freshness and quality is key.  Now I've been in a jam and made this with less than stellar ingredients and I assure you it makes a difference. 

Start with a fresh baguette; cut into slices, put on a cookie sheet and into the oven at your highest setting to toast.  Grab a just ripe avacado.  It should have a little firmness to it; you want this spread to be chunky not smooth.  Remove the pit and skin; mash the remaining fruit until broken down but not a paste.  Using a pair of kitchen shears snip 3-4 sundried tomato halves into small strips and into the avocado.  Add one large minced garlic clove.  Finish with a drizzle of very good olive oil; season with sea salt and crushed red pepper.  Combine well.  Remove the crostini from the oven.  Let cool, and top with the avocado spread.  Mangia!!

When in Muscat

Oman-- Most Americans aren't inclined to utter the phrase “I'm going to Muscat for vacation.” It's a pity really, because this relaxed and friendly city has a lot to offer... a secret many European tourists know but haven't shared. As with many overseas locals, hotels tend to offer most dining options. Here are a few of my recommendations:

Al Bustan: Formerly utilized by the Omani royals, this lavish property is now a Ritz Carlton resort. Away from the bustle of the city center, the Al Bustan provides a chance to explore the coast while getting some memorable meals in the process. The tea room is a should be your starting point for the evening. Decorated in the style of an Arabic tea salon this bar masterfully serves up the classics such as the Rob Roy and Negroni. China Mood does an excellent job concocting delicacies from the various regions of China. If it's on offering, the Chefs tasting menu is a wonderful way to sample a bit of everything, from soup to dim sum to the entrees. The décor has consistently won awards throughout Muscat; be it the main dining area or the private rooms, every detail has been meticulously thought out. If however, you'd rather take advantage of the seaside location, head to the Beach Pavilion and Bar. Here, you can get a table right on the beach and wiggle your toes in the sand. The bar is also a welcome oasis to grab a quick bit and recharge from the sun; I would definitely recommend getting up from the chaise rather than taking advantage of the cabana menu chair side delivery. There's simply no comparison between the quality. The watermelon gazpacho, garnished with a lump of fresh crab meat was the ideal afternoon tonic. Both the seared sea scallops and the Omani prawns were succulent and bursting with flavor. The Pavilion boasts of the freshness of its local catches, and this quaility definitely shows in the final entrees.

The Grand Hyatt: From an architectural standpoint, the Grand Hyatt is a bit of a Frankenstein Monster: huge, cobbled together, and out of control. Depending on where you are, the complex is a hodgepodge of African, Arabic, British, Italian and Caribbean influences. The lobby itself is almost a Disneyland take on Arabia; technicolor and totally over the top. From a dining perspective it does host a couple of gems. Tuscany is regarded as Muscat's best Italian restaurant. While I can't say I'm in the position to validate that claim, I can confirm the meal was first rate. The rocket salad was pleasant in it's simplicity; fresh and simply dressed. The seafood risotto was combined the best of Italy and Oman; creamy and flavorful with whole Omani prawns. Add a glass of Prosecco, and you've got the perfect way to spend an afternoon. The John Barry Bar is modeled after the SS John Barry, and takes the nautical theme to heart very much to heart. While the inside is a bit stuffy, when the weather is agreeable, the outdoor terrace is the perfect spot to finish the night with a cigar and scotch while watching the late night surf.

The Chedi: From the moment I stepped into the Chedi I was in love. The stark white facades, combined with dark woods and natural stone combine for an understated elegance. The Pool Cabana is the ideal place to unwind with a mojito or glass of wine. Positioned at the end of the expansive infinity pool, its only too easy to lose yourself gazing out at the shimmering water, the palm trees and the Gulf of Oman behind. The ideal spot when you're looking for a quiet place to recharge.

Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa: The Shangri-La is regarded as the premier luxury destination in Muscat. Perched atop an isolated cliff, it is truly a world apart. The resort itself is comprised of three separate hotels, each catering to a different clientele. While there are innumerable dining and beverage options, my raison d'etre for this visit was the Piano Lounge. Chic and stylish, the bar seems plucked from the west side of Manhattan vice a sleepy Middle Eastern capital. A balcony with stunning views provides a different yet equally compelling experience. The cocktails are inventive, and incorporate local fruits fresh herbs, rosewater, and spices. The 2 for 1 happy hour special is a great deal, so bring a friend or a fortified liver!

Starbucks: Truly the harbinger of modernization, Muscat boasts one of the best sites for the ubiquitous coffee bar. Set on a seaside stretch, the shop offers terrific views from the entirely glass enclosed front, or when the weather is mild, from an adjoining outdoor patio or a roof top bar. Worth checking out, simply to get a quick caffeine fix or to pick up the Oman signature mug. The gulf breezes even make the coffee taste better.


Inn at Little Washington

For over two decades, the Inn at Little Washington has enjoyed a reputation of near mythic proportions to anyone who follows food in the Washington DC area.  And much like Nessie or Sasquatch while I had oft heard the tales, I had never actually encountered anyone who experienced it for themselves. 

Le Cuillère and I paid our first visit a year ago, and since have returned twice. While I fully appreciate that going to such an establishment with that level of frequency borders on absurd, the funny thing is that it never feels that way when you're there. I mean sure you're eating 10 courses and easily dropping a mortgage payment on dinner, but you feel perfectly at ease the entire time. It could be utterly pretentious. But it's not. And how Chef Patrick O'Connell and the truly superb staff manage to pull that off remains a mystery to me. But like any amazing performance, I'd prefer to be delighted by the results then spend my time trying to spoil the magic.

The motivation behind our current visit is the 10 course tasting menu the restaurant is hosting. If it hasn't become clear from my previous postings, the Ninja feels very strongly about truffles. Possibly as strongly as one can feel about a fungus without requiring psychological intervention. So any compulsion I may have had to resist yet ANOTHER trip quickly vanished under that weighty fact. One of the most significant qualities that the Inn has captured is the ability to make you feel as though you are the only person in the world. On previous occasions we actually stayed at the Inn itself; this time however, there was no room at the Inn. A tip for your planning: The Inn is about 90 minutes from Washington. Doing a tasting menu will take at least 3 hours. Sure. You can get the earliest possible reservation and not drink. But seriously. Don't be cheap. If you're going to do this... DO IT. (On this occasion we stay down the street at the Middleton Inn, a lovely B&B with its own sense of charm and a killer breakfast. The perfect alternative if you can't get into the Inn.)

Upon our arrival we are greeted like old friends and shown to the Monkey Room, the Inn's bar area so named because of the prevalence of monkeys in the décor. I elect to start with a French 75, while Le Cuillère opts for a dirty Hendricks Martini; both are executed splendidly. In short order, we're shown to a lovely table in the enclosed garden area. We're presented with the menu; an unnecessary gesture. We immediately inform our server that we're there for the truffles and wine pairing, please. Given that most of the other diners have been harassing her with a litany of questions, she seems noticeably relieved. For once, I'm decisive.

The production commences with truffle dusted popcorn served in a mini popcorn box embossed with the Inn's logo. As our server informs us, they recognize the theater involved and have an excellent sense of humor about it. With that she produces an actual basket of truffles and proceeds to shave one over our popcorn. A BASKET FULL OF TRUFFLES. It takes every ounce of restraint not to tackle her, grab the truffles and make a run for it. Of course my attire, the weather, and the desire to someday return keep me in check. The popcorn is heaven, quite simply because it serves as a blank canvas which totally lets the flavor of the truffle shine. Genius.

Next comes the savory Lilliputian Petit Fours. These are the amuse bouches one normally receives at the high end meal. Little bites that give you just a glimpse of the wonders to come. On this visit we're presented with a delicate smoked salmon macaroon, a pairing of foie gros and chocolate, and our favorite, a jellied Bloody Mary, which as the name implies combined all the ingredients of a bloody mary into a little gelled sphere. It tasted exactly like a bloody mary, and was simple extra ordinary.

Following the petits four, we're presented with a Duck consomme, paired with a mini truffle gougere. The consume, served in a miniature glass cup, the clear soup is rich and flavorful, and is perfectly complimented by the tiny biscuit which quite literally melts in the mouth. And to think... the real meal has yet to begin.

But now it's time to get down to business. A heart of smoked scottish salmon with osetra caviar and black truffle vinaigrette paired with Veuve Fornay and Fils Brut Rose Vertus 1er Cru Champagne NV. The pairing is exquisite. In my mind, few things work together like smoked salmon, caviar, and champagne. Be it at brunch or as a starter, together the elements just sing. And this is no exception. The salmon is so fresh its practically swimming of the plate. The vinaigrette provides the perfect ouch of acid to cut through the heaviness of the fish, cream and caviar.

Next on the line up is Ebony and Ivory. Maine Diver Scallops with medallions of Black truffle, paired with the 2007 Verget, Les Clous, Meursault, Burgandy France. This sounds like something the Ninja would adore, but I must say it was not my favorite. I never thought there was such thing as too much truffle, but both Le Cuillère and I agreed that the thick wafers of truffle overwhelmed the scallops. On a large menu, not every dish is going to suit every diner. That said, the quality of the ingredients is so superior that even a bit of a miss is not a total disappointment.

But then along came perfection. When I first saw the next listing, I had no idea what awaited me. Macaroni and Cheese with Virginia Country Ham and Shaved Black Truffle. How good could it possibly be?? Excuse me while I take a moment to relive the experience...... Ok, I'm back. Presented on a toboggan of crisp parmesan a float in a smokey cheese sauce. A top the crisp was a thin slice of cured ham covered by 5 perfectly baked pieces of penne. The dish was perfectly matched with a 2000 Braida di Giacomo Bologna, Ai Suma, Barbaera d'Asti, Piedmont Italy. I've had dressed up mac and cheese before; they pale in comparison. Nothing I can say will possibly do this combination justice. So I won't waste your time trying.

I'm still reeling when the next course arrives. A truffle stuffed roast pheasant on savoy cabbage braised in Champagne paired with a 2001 Hermans Pecina Vendimia Selecocionda Reserva Rioja Spain. The dish is lovely, but it's out of place. After the richness and intensity of the mac and cheese, the pheasant comes across as too delicate. The bird is perfectly cooked, and the rioja makes an excellent companion, but I find myself thinking more about what it isn't than about what it is. I appreciate the desire for contrasts and the intention to shake up the palette. In my case however, it puts a dish I might otherwise have enjoyed in the unfortunate position of competing with its bolder predecessor. In this case, I would have found the pheasant after the scallops as a more enjoyable progression.

Happily, the progression swings back with the blackened wagyu rib eye with bone marrow custard and black truffle risotto. It's served with a 2005 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley California. I eat meat rarely, so when I do I find myself either reaffirming that choice, or wondering why I don't do it more often. Cutting into the wagyu I found myself once again enjoying the sensory experience of a perfectly done steak. Heaven. The creaminess of the risotto was the perfect partner to the blackened crust. I've never had marrow before, but this little cup was truly memorable. The custard was rich, savory, and simultaneously delicate. The wine matched well with every component and helped tie the complete dish together.

It's always at this moment, when you feel you can't possibly eat anything more, that a small culinary oasis appears. Pineapple-lemongrass sorbet with pink peppercorn granita. There's nothing better than a citrus base granita to help dismiss the heaviness of the previous courses and hit the palette's restart button. The peppercorn lends just a hint of spice that offsets the fruit. Now I'm ready for the dish that brought me to the Inn.

Warm chocolate bread pudding and almond ice cream perfumed with truffle, paired with Blandy's Island bottled Malmsey 1994 Colheita Madeira Portugal. We had the pleasure of experiencing this dessert on our last visit, and I was dying to try it again. I love the earthiness of truffle incorporated in a sweet dish. To my mind, it'a a better pairing than chocolate and peanut butter. This particular dessert is also offset with little chocolate and truffle flavored puffs to add a bit of texture. Think cocoa puffs, but a million times better. While I fully appreciate that a box of truffle puffs would cost about $200 a box, I'd happily pay it to start my day with this breakfast of champions. Sigh. Every bit as good as I remembered.

As Le Cuillère and I relax with our Maderia our server asks if we'd like to tour the kitchen. On this occasion we're pleased to learn that chef O'connell is working this evening. While the kitchen tour is never to be missed, the opportunity to meet the man who transformed a once humble country inn into a culinary destination is something I can't pass up. Chef O'Connell is charming and gracious; it's apparent his touch is on every aspect of the experience. We retire for the evening completely satisfying and already anticipating another excuse to visit.

My Big Fat Vegan New York

I love New York. Is there truly a better place in the world to eat? (Somewhere out there someone just answered that rhetorical question with "Well… actually….. I prefer…." Pipe down. You're wrong.) On this particular occasion, I am joined by my best friend who happens to be vegan (for the purposes of this and future writings, I'll refer to her as La Végétalienne). I don't mean "vegan" as I sometimes pretend to be while occasionally slurping raw oysters while clad in leather and fur. I mean actual vegan…. the woman won't even eat honey she's so vegan. So since I have in recent weeks been rediscovering my love of cheese, this seemed to be an excellent opportunity to once again explore the virtues of a plant-based diet and put my relationship with Camembert on ice. So for 48 hours, I explored the culinary virtues of NY from a vegan perspective, straying from the path only once (but it was totally worth it!)

Zen Palate - Not surprisingly, a lot of Asian dishes adapt well to vegan cooking. After all, you can replace the meat in your stir fry with tofu without the entire dish falling to pieces from a culinary perspective. That said, there's really only so much "tofu and broccoli" or "Kung Pao Tofu" one can take. Eventually you want a dish that stands alone and isn’t trying to be something it’s not. Zen Palate meets this challenge head on. Perusing the menu at the Hell's Kitchen location, and I was actually stymied by the number of choices that sounded really good; not an easy feat when you’re eliminating entire food groups. I began with the Basil Peanut Moo Shu Rolls; delicate moo shu pancakes filled with fresh vegetables and yes, peanuts and basil. It was crisp and light; the perfect start to the meal. For my main course, I selected the Temple Of Zen; a delightful mélange of string beans, squash, carrot, broccoli, snow peas, mushrooms, red cabbage and jalapeno peppers, topped with grilled tofu, and crunchy kale served alongside a combination of red and brown rice. This dish was amazing; the vegetables were at the peak of freshness and masterfully prepared. While they sound simplistic, vegetable dishes…particularly stir fry…. are often hit or miss. There is a tendency toovercook them until they're nothing but a few flaccid stalks lying sadly in a pool of gelatinous goo. These however were perfectly crisp and the sauce a light and subtle companion. To top it off, the price point is an incredible value; about what you'd pay to have your local delivery, only ten times the quality.

Le Pain Quotidien - Yes, they're a chain. And yes, they're pretentious and rather overpriced. But they're just so darn good. And you know that you are going to be getting simple dishes with high quality ingredients that are good for you, and make you feel good when you're eating them. They are one of my favorite breakfast spots and their menu is very vegan friendly, so yes, I am not ashamed to say that I went there twice on this trip. The seasonal menu for spring is particularly good. I love the Wheatgrass and Citrus Cooler. It’s light and refreshing, making wheatgrass actually palatable. The Açaí, Banana and Rawnola Parfait is the perfect way to begin the day; a combination of fresh fruit, soy yogurt, and a raw "granola" made of buckwheat groats, chia seeds, and dried fruits including goji berries, it keeps you going without weighing you down. The Riz au Lait is a delightful alternative to oatmeal; think brown rice pudding for breakfast made with soy milk and topped with fresh berries and agave. If you are in the mood for oatmeal, La Végétalienne had the delightful Oatmeal and Banana with maple syrup and pecans, which hit the spot after a nice run. We also enjoyed the tartness of the Vegan Cranberry Açaí Muffin. And while it’s technically on the lunch menu, the Sweet Pea Hummus Terrine should not be missed. A puree of spring peas and mint served on an open faced sandwich and topped with fresh vegetables, it quite simply tastes like spring. With all this, who cares if you’re drinking your coffee out of little bowls….

Eataly - I've waxed poetic about Eataly before. And I'm happy to report it’s still awesome. So when La Végétalienne was having a somewhat stressful arrival, where else would a take her for a late lunch and a dose of instant happiness?? After the tour of the market, we naturally settle at the Verdure kitchen. We loved the “Rules” posted on the wall (“#8 - Vegetables will make you smile. How can you not fall in love with something that tastes good and makes you look good?”), and La Végétalienne loved that the vegan choices were well-marked and the server was knowledgeable about the vegan options. We start with the day’s special of Eggplant Caponata served over grilled bread. It is absolutely divine; eggplant and tomato are a classic pairing for good reason. With the addition of garlic and herbs, it’s heaven on bread. La Végétalienne also opts for the black lentil soup. Milder than black beans but with a similar flavor profile, it was familiar yet novel at the same time. For the main course, we elect to split the Verdure Alla Piastra, a selection of warm vegetables and farro salad in a nebbiolo vinaigrette. I know. It’s a salad, how interesting can it possibly be, right? Well, my friends, allow me to enlighten you. Imagine a selection of the freshest spring vegetables: asparagus, heirloom squashes, the most divinely tender grilled fennel, miniature corn, eggplant, peppers, and Vidalia onion; tossed with arugula and farro, served warm. As Eataly's manifesto claims, if the ingredients are fresh, you don't need to do much to them to make them shine. Some dark chocolate and espresso and La Végétalienne is ready to face the world again.

Blossom - Regarded by many as the premier vegan fine dining establishment in NY, I was anxious to try it out to see if it could provide a diner on par with the quality of my favorite non-vegan spots. Since we didn't have reservations, we were told there would be a slight 15 minute wait for a table. We decided to stroll around the Chelsea block, when we stumbled upon the associated Blossom Bakery just across the street. As with the restaurant, all items are vegan, although they were so extensive and looked so good that we had to ask to double-check. They had a dizzying selection of cakes, pastries, and cookies. Adopting the attitude that one should eat dessert first cause you never know what the future might hold, we took the cashier’s advice and selected a huge, brightly-frosted, butterfly-shaped sugar cookie. Had I not known, I never would have guessed it was vegan; the cookie was moist and buttery (I don't want to know how) and the frosting was the perfect consistency. We finished “mmm”ing just as the text message came through announcing that our table was ready. Our appetites whetted, we returned to Blossom for the main event. The atmosphere was dim and swanky with a little bit of attitude. The menu has an impressive selection of dishes and represents multiple cuisines. It was very difficult to choose, and we could only narrow it down by eliminating the dishes we felt we could reasonably cook ourselves or get elsewhere (such as the African Peanut Stew). Several of the dishes feature seitan (pronounced “SAY-tan”, like, yes, that guy), which is just wheat gluten with the starch removed, and can be used to simulate meat. Personally, I am not a fan of fake meat. I don't think it bears any resemblance to meat, and frankly I'd just prefer not to pretend. But I'm in the minority, and so I leave it to La Végétalienne to cover that portion of the menu. (Hi, La Végétalienne here, pointing out that seitan is not some new-fangled meat substitute – it dates back to ancient China and has a delightfully chewy mouthfeel. It is also high in protein, always a plus, and contains no soy if that’s a concern for you. In other words, try it!) We start with the Sweet Potato Rolls; a raw wrap filled with shredded coconut, jicama, carrot, red and yellow peppers, scallions and avocado and paired with an almond ginger dipping sauce. Yum! The rolls are perfectly crisp, and the variety of ingredients works amazingly well together incorporating crunchy, creamy, savory and sweet into every bite. We debate drinking the delectable sauce. Next we sample the Field Greens Salad, a delightful mix of fresh baby greens, candied walnuts, tofu croutons, and grilled pears, tossed lightly with a shallot vinaigrette. Once again, the interplay of the ingredients made this dish an excellent starter. While alone the pears and walnuts could be too sweet, the shallot vinaigrette cut through the sugar. The crispy tofu was a welcome change from the traditional crouton; rather than simply soaking up dressing it added a little more substance and texture. For the main course, I wanted to stay on the light side. I opted for another appetizer; the Eggplant Rollatini with spinach, tofu ricotta, shiitake mushrooms, truffle oil, and vegan mozzarella in a housemade marinara. I'm normally not a fan of the fake cheeses, but the kitchen kept it as a minor portion of the dish, and I was quite pleased with the overall result. La Végétalienne selected the Port Wine Seitan; pan-seared seitan cutlets in a port wine and mushroom sauce, with garlic mashed potatoes, tempura onion, and sautéed spinach. She thought it was just what a “fancy restaurant meal” should be – rich and decadent and incredibly flavorful. We capped off the meal with a pot of lavender tea and a little dessert. I selected the signature Blossom Cheesecake with a berry reduction.Silken tofu (if that’s what they use?) does an admirable job of replacing cream cheese, and this was the perfect light texture. I didn't miss the Philly one bit. La Végétalienne chose the Coconut Lavender Crème Brulée which she declared the best dessert she has ever had, ever. Blossom certainly lived up to the hype. I walked out having a great meal, not just a great vegan meal.

The Library Bar at the Hudson - It's currently under renovation, but the already completed portions of this boutique hotel just up from Hell's Kitchen and around the corner from Central Park offer a glimpse at a promising stop. The Library Bar, as the name might imply, is decked out as an old school British reading room. Except that in addition to the massive collection of books, there is also a pool table covered in purple velvet and an intriguing series of photographs depicting cows in hats. They also mix a fabulous Negroni with the addition of basil to the traditional recipe.

Caselulla - Right. So I recognize that discussing an intimate wine and cheese bar/café in a vegan-focused piece might seem a tad out of place. And as you might now guess, this was my one non-vegan indiscretion. But it wasn't the cheese that did me in. Sometimes a girl just needs champagne and chocolate. I selected the Chocolate Cake and we each had a glass of Rosé Cava. As if the slab of chocolate decadence wasn't enough, they pour a small pitcher of fresh cream over top. While cake is often partnered with a tall glass of milk, I can honestly say that it's never occurred to me to dispense with the formalities of a glass and just combine the two. It does work quite well however. And meant I could fill my glass with pink bubbly instead!

Boston: Union Oyster

Le Cuillère and I recently paid a visit to Boston. Summer is for the weak; to get the most out of the experience it's imperative that you not feel your extremities for most of the trip. And while I am being sarcastic, the cold conveniently does assist in one's overall enjoyment of some key regional specialties. Le Cuillère and I escaped the chill at America's oldest continually operating restaurant-- the Union Oyster House. Established in 1826, Union Oyster has played host to the likes of Daniel Webster who, word has it, perfected his legal acumen over endless plates of oysters and watered down brandy. The place has some serious historical ambiance. Not in a cheesy “George Washington slept here” sort of way; but in a manner which makes you feel perfectly at home. No one that works here is wearing period costumes.

Wandering in off the street, we manage to secure a spot at the bar to wait out the crowds. Like most locations in Boston, Union Oyster has a plethora of beer on tap and an abundance of Sam Adams. The selections range well beyond the normal fare, and we quickly settle on Sam's Brick Red. And Irish-style red ale, hoppy flavorful and without a trace of bitterness. A perfect start to the evening.

Eventually our patience is rewarded and we're lead to the upstairs dining room seated across from what was apparently JFK's favorite booth (or so the many placards lead us to believe). After a quick glance of the menu, we settle on the same thing: the Shore dinner consisting of clam chowder, steamers, a lobster, corn, red potatoes, corn bread and Indian pudding. It proves to be an ungodly amount of food.  Of note, what I call "ungodly," Le Cuillere calls "a nice snack."

The cornbread arrives first, and it is truly amazing. Rather then a brick of crumbing corn meal, this is almost like a cake in texture with a delicate corn flavor and served piping hot. Next the chowder arrives. It strikes a good balance of consistency; not too thick or thin. While a little sparse on clam pieces when compared to other local restaurants and pubs, the overall flavor is quite good. A neat not-so-well-kept secret about Boston is every single restaurant in town claims to have the "best clam chowder in the city," and most of them are right!  We're next greeted by a basket of steamed clams, complete with lemon, butter, and a little broth for washing off the sand. After a bit of instruction from our waitress we set to work shelling and disrobing our clams. The bivalves are steamed to perfection, plump and without a trace of rubbery texture.

At this point, I'm feeling pretty content. The food has arrived so far at a pretty brisk pace and I find I have nearly forgotten how much food we've got coming when giant plates begin to arrive. I've elected to have my lobster grilled, while Le Cuillère went with the traditional boiled approach. I find further description here to be unnecessary. Is there really anything better than lobster meat and drawn butter?

Unfortunately, I find I've quickly met my match. Le Cuillère is the beneficiary as I can't even make it through the lobster claws, never mind the rest of the plate. Our waitress is there to remind us however that we have Indian pudding coming. I have no idea what exactly this might be; she describes it as a sort of liquid pumpkin pie. And this is not that far off. Made with a cornmeal base, molasses, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg, it does bear a certain resemblance. I have a bite to confirm, and then retire to fight another day. It's lovely, but I am clearly not up for the challenge of hearty New England fare.

It would be criminal to go to Boston and not have seafood. Union Oyster does an excellent job of combining the local cuisine and history to create a wonderful experience where you feel you've not only had a good meal, but absorbed the local ambiance as well. Oh.... and go hungry. Very hungry.



Boston: Duexave

When Le Cuillère and I planned a trip to Boston, I did a little advance research to see what restaurants were well regarded and appeared to be doing some interesting things with the menu. I keyed in on Duexave, a recent opening in the Back Bay section of the city. We arrived early, and made our way to the cozy bar for an aperitif. Food and beverage go hand in hand, and I tend to find the creativity and execution of an establishment's cocktail menu is usual a good harbinger of what you might expect from the kitchen. We browsed the list and several intriguing options immediately jumped off the page. Le Cuillère settled on a Vesper Martini, while I decided to sample the "New Groni", a riff on the classic drink made with gin, fresh grapefruit, Aperol, and egg white. Both were light, refreshing, and expertly made; the perfect pre-dinner palate cleanser.

Once seated for dinner, we found the menu and the specials presented numerous options, and I found myself even more conflicted than normal.  Deuxave specializes in the use of local and seasonally available ingredients; the menu often identifies the pedigee of various ingredients.  After much ado, a decision was reached. Le Cuillère chose to start with a foie gras/sauterne pairing, to be followed by a duet of veal. I settled on a winter vegetable salad, with seared diver scallops. (I sometimes feel I order scallops too often, but alas....the palette wants what the palette wants.)

The décor was calming in muted grays and stone, and the fire added a welcome glow and warmth to the room. It was truly a lovely place to unwind with a glass of wine after a long day of wandering. The first courses arrived and both of us were immediately thrilled with our selections. The foie gras appeared to have come from what can only be described as the healthiest of geese. It was dressedwith ginger cake, grapefruit marmalade, and sweet potato-citrus puree along side a kohlrabi, grapefruit & pomegranate salad. The citrus paired wonderfully with the richness of the goose; Le Cuillère's fondness for foie gras was rekindled after a less than satisfactory experience in the recent past.

My love of leafy greens, on the other hand, compels me to order a salad at every opportunity. And while yes, I can and do easily dump some mesculan on a plate at home, I enjoy ordering them out based solely on their accessibility. A salad, for the most part is something each of us can ostensibly recreate at home with out much difficulty. As a result I love discovering new preparations I can weave into my own rotation as well as discovering extraordinary displays of the humble green. My winter salad, in this case, was distinctly in the latter camp. The baby greens hailing from Equinox Farm were tossed with a Villa Mandori Balsamic and presented, quite literally, in an edible cornucopia fashioned from ribbons of lightly crisped potato. Surrounding the centerpiece were Roasted Delicata Radish, Pepin de Potiron, Pickled Cauliflower, and Parmesan Whisps. It was the most visually stunning presentation of a salad I've ever seen, and was every bit as delicious as it appeared. It is my sincere hope that more vegetables will be served in edible fried potato baskets in the future.

While the first courses were difficult to top, our second dishes, fortunately were up for the challenge. Le Cuillère's duet using natural Strauss veal was innovative and well presented. The dish featured a braised veal cheek over a celeric puree, as well as a roasted tenderloin. The plate was garnished with black eyed peas, roasted carrots, parsnips and Maitake mushrooms and served with veal jus. Le Cuillere was clearly in gastric nirvana; he would take a bite of the tenderloin with some of the black eyed peas, close his eyes while chewing and make noises approximating those of a large mammal being scratched behind its ears, and then repeat the process with the braised cheek, his eyes widening in surprise at its tenderness with every bite.  It's like he expected it to toughen up as he got closer to the center, and delighted in being proven wrong with each bite. 

Despite my initial hesitation to get scallops yet again, my instincts have led me in the right direction. The local diver scallops are seared to perfection, and served along side rounds of a crispy rosemary polenta fashioned so convincingly to mimic the scallops themselves I have difficulty distinguishing the difference at first blush. The two are served atop a pine nut puree, drizzled with a tangerine emulsion and paired with a braised red cabbage and Brussels sprout leaves. The dish makes for a wonderful pairing of flavors and textures with the citrus adding a brightness to the palette. I knew the scallops were the way to go.

Totally satisfied, we forgo dessert opting instead for espresso with a lemon twist. The perfect end to an excellent meal. I don't have much exposure to Boston's culinary scene, and Deuxave was a very strong showing. I find myself looking for an excuse to return. Fortunately baseball season is around the corner. But that's a topic for another day....