When in Muscat

Oman-- Most Americans aren't inclined to utter the phrase “I'm going to Muscat for vacation.” It's a pity really, because this relaxed and friendly city has a lot to offer... a secret many European tourists know but haven't shared. As with many overseas locals, hotels tend to offer most dining options. Here are a few of my recommendations:

Al Bustan: Formerly utilized by the Omani royals, this lavish property is now a Ritz Carlton resort. Away from the bustle of the city center, the Al Bustan provides a chance to explore the coast while getting some memorable meals in the process. The tea room is a should be your starting point for the evening. Decorated in the style of an Arabic tea salon this bar masterfully serves up the classics such as the Rob Roy and Negroni. China Mood does an excellent job concocting delicacies from the various regions of China. If it's on offering, the Chefs tasting menu is a wonderful way to sample a bit of everything, from soup to dim sum to the entrees. The décor has consistently won awards throughout Muscat; be it the main dining area or the private rooms, every detail has been meticulously thought out. If however, you'd rather take advantage of the seaside location, head to the Beach Pavilion and Bar. Here, you can get a table right on the beach and wiggle your toes in the sand. The bar is also a welcome oasis to grab a quick bit and recharge from the sun; I would definitely recommend getting up from the chaise rather than taking advantage of the cabana menu chair side delivery. There's simply no comparison between the quality. The watermelon gazpacho, garnished with a lump of fresh crab meat was the ideal afternoon tonic. Both the seared sea scallops and the Omani prawns were succulent and bursting with flavor. The Pavilion boasts of the freshness of its local catches, and this quaility definitely shows in the final entrees.

The Grand Hyatt: From an architectural standpoint, the Grand Hyatt is a bit of a Frankenstein Monster: huge, cobbled together, and out of control. Depending on where you are, the complex is a hodgepodge of African, Arabic, British, Italian and Caribbean influences. The lobby itself is almost a Disneyland take on Arabia; technicolor and totally over the top. From a dining perspective it does host a couple of gems. Tuscany is regarded as Muscat's best Italian restaurant. While I can't say I'm in the position to validate that claim, I can confirm the meal was first rate. The rocket salad was pleasant in it's simplicity; fresh and simply dressed. The seafood risotto was combined the best of Italy and Oman; creamy and flavorful with whole Omani prawns. Add a glass of Prosecco, and you've got the perfect way to spend an afternoon. The John Barry Bar is modeled after the SS John Barry, and takes the nautical theme to heart very much to heart. While the inside is a bit stuffy, when the weather is agreeable, the outdoor terrace is the perfect spot to finish the night with a cigar and scotch while watching the late night surf.

The Chedi: From the moment I stepped into the Chedi I was in love. The stark white facades, combined with dark woods and natural stone combine for an understated elegance. The Pool Cabana is the ideal place to unwind with a mojito or glass of wine. Positioned at the end of the expansive infinity pool, its only too easy to lose yourself gazing out at the shimmering water, the palm trees and the Gulf of Oman behind. The ideal spot when you're looking for a quiet place to recharge.

Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa: The Shangri-La is regarded as the premier luxury destination in Muscat. Perched atop an isolated cliff, it is truly a world apart. The resort itself is comprised of three separate hotels, each catering to a different clientele. While there are innumerable dining and beverage options, my raison d'etre for this visit was the Piano Lounge. Chic and stylish, the bar seems plucked from the west side of Manhattan vice a sleepy Middle Eastern capital. A balcony with stunning views provides a different yet equally compelling experience. The cocktails are inventive, and incorporate local fruits fresh herbs, rosewater, and spices. The 2 for 1 happy hour special is a great deal, so bring a friend or a fortified liver!

Starbucks: Truly the harbinger of modernization, Muscat boasts one of the best sites for the ubiquitous coffee bar. Set on a seaside stretch, the shop offers terrific views from the entirely glass enclosed front, or when the weather is mild, from an adjoining outdoor patio or a roof top bar. Worth checking out, simply to get a quick caffeine fix or to pick up the Oman signature mug. The gulf breezes even make the coffee taste better.


Inn at Little Washington

For over two decades, the Inn at Little Washington has enjoyed a reputation of near mythic proportions to anyone who follows food in the Washington DC area.  And much like Nessie or Sasquatch while I had oft heard the tales, I had never actually encountered anyone who experienced it for themselves. 

Le Cuillère and I paid our first visit a year ago, and since have returned twice. While I fully appreciate that going to such an establishment with that level of frequency borders on absurd, the funny thing is that it never feels that way when you're there. I mean sure you're eating 10 courses and easily dropping a mortgage payment on dinner, but you feel perfectly at ease the entire time. It could be utterly pretentious. But it's not. And how Chef Patrick O'Connell and the truly superb staff manage to pull that off remains a mystery to me. But like any amazing performance, I'd prefer to be delighted by the results then spend my time trying to spoil the magic.

The motivation behind our current visit is the 10 course tasting menu the restaurant is hosting. If it hasn't become clear from my previous postings, the Ninja feels very strongly about truffles. Possibly as strongly as one can feel about a fungus without requiring psychological intervention. So any compulsion I may have had to resist yet ANOTHER trip quickly vanished under that weighty fact. One of the most significant qualities that the Inn has captured is the ability to make you feel as though you are the only person in the world. On previous occasions we actually stayed at the Inn itself; this time however, there was no room at the Inn. A tip for your planning: The Inn is about 90 minutes from Washington. Doing a tasting menu will take at least 3 hours. Sure. You can get the earliest possible reservation and not drink. But seriously. Don't be cheap. If you're going to do this... DO IT. (On this occasion we stay down the street at the Middleton Inn, a lovely B&B with its own sense of charm and a killer breakfast. The perfect alternative if you can't get into the Inn.)

Upon our arrival we are greeted like old friends and shown to the Monkey Room, the Inn's bar area so named because of the prevalence of monkeys in the décor. I elect to start with a French 75, while Le Cuillère opts for a dirty Hendricks Martini; both are executed splendidly. In short order, we're shown to a lovely table in the enclosed garden area. We're presented with the menu; an unnecessary gesture. We immediately inform our server that we're there for the truffles and wine pairing, please. Given that most of the other diners have been harassing her with a litany of questions, she seems noticeably relieved. For once, I'm decisive.

The production commences with truffle dusted popcorn served in a mini popcorn box embossed with the Inn's logo. As our server informs us, they recognize the theater involved and have an excellent sense of humor about it. With that she produces an actual basket of truffles and proceeds to shave one over our popcorn. A BASKET FULL OF TRUFFLES. It takes every ounce of restraint not to tackle her, grab the truffles and make a run for it. Of course my attire, the weather, and the desire to someday return keep me in check. The popcorn is heaven, quite simply because it serves as a blank canvas which totally lets the flavor of the truffle shine. Genius.

Next comes the savory Lilliputian Petit Fours. These are the amuse bouches one normally receives at the high end meal. Little bites that give you just a glimpse of the wonders to come. On this visit we're presented with a delicate smoked salmon macaroon, a pairing of foie gros and chocolate, and our favorite, a jellied Bloody Mary, which as the name implies combined all the ingredients of a bloody mary into a little gelled sphere. It tasted exactly like a bloody mary, and was simple extra ordinary.

Following the petits four, we're presented with a Duck consomme, paired with a mini truffle gougere. The consume, served in a miniature glass cup, the clear soup is rich and flavorful, and is perfectly complimented by the tiny biscuit which quite literally melts in the mouth. And to think... the real meal has yet to begin.

But now it's time to get down to business. A heart of smoked scottish salmon with osetra caviar and black truffle vinaigrette paired with Veuve Fornay and Fils Brut Rose Vertus 1er Cru Champagne NV. The pairing is exquisite. In my mind, few things work together like smoked salmon, caviar, and champagne. Be it at brunch or as a starter, together the elements just sing. And this is no exception. The salmon is so fresh its practically swimming of the plate. The vinaigrette provides the perfect ouch of acid to cut through the heaviness of the fish, cream and caviar.

Next on the line up is Ebony and Ivory. Maine Diver Scallops with medallions of Black truffle, paired with the 2007 Verget, Les Clous, Meursault, Burgandy France. This sounds like something the Ninja would adore, but I must say it was not my favorite. I never thought there was such thing as too much truffle, but both Le Cuillère and I agreed that the thick wafers of truffle overwhelmed the scallops. On a large menu, not every dish is going to suit every diner. That said, the quality of the ingredients is so superior that even a bit of a miss is not a total disappointment.

But then along came perfection. When I first saw the next listing, I had no idea what awaited me. Macaroni and Cheese with Virginia Country Ham and Shaved Black Truffle. How good could it possibly be?? Excuse me while I take a moment to relive the experience...... Ok, I'm back. Presented on a toboggan of crisp parmesan a float in a smokey cheese sauce. A top the crisp was a thin slice of cured ham covered by 5 perfectly baked pieces of penne. The dish was perfectly matched with a 2000 Braida di Giacomo Bologna, Ai Suma, Barbaera d'Asti, Piedmont Italy. I've had dressed up mac and cheese before; they pale in comparison. Nothing I can say will possibly do this combination justice. So I won't waste your time trying.

I'm still reeling when the next course arrives. A truffle stuffed roast pheasant on savoy cabbage braised in Champagne paired with a 2001 Hermans Pecina Vendimia Selecocionda Reserva Rioja Spain. The dish is lovely, but it's out of place. After the richness and intensity of the mac and cheese, the pheasant comes across as too delicate. The bird is perfectly cooked, and the rioja makes an excellent companion, but I find myself thinking more about what it isn't than about what it is. I appreciate the desire for contrasts and the intention to shake up the palette. In my case however, it puts a dish I might otherwise have enjoyed in the unfortunate position of competing with its bolder predecessor. In this case, I would have found the pheasant after the scallops as a more enjoyable progression.

Happily, the progression swings back with the blackened wagyu rib eye with bone marrow custard and black truffle risotto. It's served with a 2005 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley California. I eat meat rarely, so when I do I find myself either reaffirming that choice, or wondering why I don't do it more often. Cutting into the wagyu I found myself once again enjoying the sensory experience of a perfectly done steak. Heaven. The creaminess of the risotto was the perfect partner to the blackened crust. I've never had marrow before, but this little cup was truly memorable. The custard was rich, savory, and simultaneously delicate. The wine matched well with every component and helped tie the complete dish together.

It's always at this moment, when you feel you can't possibly eat anything more, that a small culinary oasis appears. Pineapple-lemongrass sorbet with pink peppercorn granita. There's nothing better than a citrus base granita to help dismiss the heaviness of the previous courses and hit the palette's restart button. The peppercorn lends just a hint of spice that offsets the fruit. Now I'm ready for the dish that brought me to the Inn.

Warm chocolate bread pudding and almond ice cream perfumed with truffle, paired with Blandy's Island bottled Malmsey 1994 Colheita Madeira Portugal. We had the pleasure of experiencing this dessert on our last visit, and I was dying to try it again. I love the earthiness of truffle incorporated in a sweet dish. To my mind, it'a a better pairing than chocolate and peanut butter. This particular dessert is also offset with little chocolate and truffle flavored puffs to add a bit of texture. Think cocoa puffs, but a million times better. While I fully appreciate that a box of truffle puffs would cost about $200 a box, I'd happily pay it to start my day with this breakfast of champions. Sigh. Every bit as good as I remembered.

As Le Cuillère and I relax with our Maderia our server asks if we'd like to tour the kitchen. On this occasion we're pleased to learn that chef O'connell is working this evening. While the kitchen tour is never to be missed, the opportunity to meet the man who transformed a once humble country inn into a culinary destination is something I can't pass up. Chef O'Connell is charming and gracious; it's apparent his touch is on every aspect of the experience. We retire for the evening completely satisfying and already anticipating another excuse to visit.

My Big Fat Vegan New York

I love New York. Is there truly a better place in the world to eat? (Somewhere out there someone just answered that rhetorical question with "Well… actually….. I prefer…." Pipe down. You're wrong.) On this particular occasion, I am joined by my best friend who happens to be vegan (for the purposes of this and future writings, I'll refer to her as La Végétalienne). I don't mean "vegan" as I sometimes pretend to be while occasionally slurping raw oysters while clad in leather and fur. I mean actual vegan…. the woman won't even eat honey she's so vegan. So since I have in recent weeks been rediscovering my love of cheese, this seemed to be an excellent opportunity to once again explore the virtues of a plant-based diet and put my relationship with Camembert on ice. So for 48 hours, I explored the culinary virtues of NY from a vegan perspective, straying from the path only once (but it was totally worth it!)

Zen Palate - Not surprisingly, a lot of Asian dishes adapt well to vegan cooking. After all, you can replace the meat in your stir fry with tofu without the entire dish falling to pieces from a culinary perspective. That said, there's really only so much "tofu and broccoli" or "Kung Pao Tofu" one can take. Eventually you want a dish that stands alone and isn’t trying to be something it’s not. Zen Palate meets this challenge head on. Perusing the menu at the Hell's Kitchen location, and I was actually stymied by the number of choices that sounded really good; not an easy feat when you’re eliminating entire food groups. I began with the Basil Peanut Moo Shu Rolls; delicate moo shu pancakes filled with fresh vegetables and yes, peanuts and basil. It was crisp and light; the perfect start to the meal. For my main course, I selected the Temple Of Zen; a delightful mélange of string beans, squash, carrot, broccoli, snow peas, mushrooms, red cabbage and jalapeno peppers, topped with grilled tofu, and crunchy kale served alongside a combination of red and brown rice. This dish was amazing; the vegetables were at the peak of freshness and masterfully prepared. While they sound simplistic, vegetable dishes…particularly stir fry…. are often hit or miss. There is a tendency toovercook them until they're nothing but a few flaccid stalks lying sadly in a pool of gelatinous goo. These however were perfectly crisp and the sauce a light and subtle companion. To top it off, the price point is an incredible value; about what you'd pay to have your local delivery, only ten times the quality.

Le Pain Quotidien - Yes, they're a chain. And yes, they're pretentious and rather overpriced. But they're just so darn good. And you know that you are going to be getting simple dishes with high quality ingredients that are good for you, and make you feel good when you're eating them. They are one of my favorite breakfast spots and their menu is very vegan friendly, so yes, I am not ashamed to say that I went there twice on this trip. The seasonal menu for spring is particularly good. I love the Wheatgrass and Citrus Cooler. It’s light and refreshing, making wheatgrass actually palatable. The Açaí, Banana and Rawnola Parfait is the perfect way to begin the day; a combination of fresh fruit, soy yogurt, and a raw "granola" made of buckwheat groats, chia seeds, and dried fruits including goji berries, it keeps you going without weighing you down. The Riz au Lait is a delightful alternative to oatmeal; think brown rice pudding for breakfast made with soy milk and topped with fresh berries and agave. If you are in the mood for oatmeal, La Végétalienne had the delightful Oatmeal and Banana with maple syrup and pecans, which hit the spot after a nice run. We also enjoyed the tartness of the Vegan Cranberry Açaí Muffin. And while it’s technically on the lunch menu, the Sweet Pea Hummus Terrine should not be missed. A puree of spring peas and mint served on an open faced sandwich and topped with fresh vegetables, it quite simply tastes like spring. With all this, who cares if you’re drinking your coffee out of little bowls….

Eataly - I've waxed poetic about Eataly before. And I'm happy to report it’s still awesome. So when La Végétalienne was having a somewhat stressful arrival, where else would a take her for a late lunch and a dose of instant happiness?? After the tour of the market, we naturally settle at the Verdure kitchen. We loved the “Rules” posted on the wall (“#8 - Vegetables will make you smile. How can you not fall in love with something that tastes good and makes you look good?”), and La Végétalienne loved that the vegan choices were well-marked and the server was knowledgeable about the vegan options. We start with the day’s special of Eggplant Caponata served over grilled bread. It is absolutely divine; eggplant and tomato are a classic pairing for good reason. With the addition of garlic and herbs, it’s heaven on bread. La Végétalienne also opts for the black lentil soup. Milder than black beans but with a similar flavor profile, it was familiar yet novel at the same time. For the main course, we elect to split the Verdure Alla Piastra, a selection of warm vegetables and farro salad in a nebbiolo vinaigrette. I know. It’s a salad, how interesting can it possibly be, right? Well, my friends, allow me to enlighten you. Imagine a selection of the freshest spring vegetables: asparagus, heirloom squashes, the most divinely tender grilled fennel, miniature corn, eggplant, peppers, and Vidalia onion; tossed with arugula and farro, served warm. As Eataly's manifesto claims, if the ingredients are fresh, you don't need to do much to them to make them shine. Some dark chocolate and espresso and La Végétalienne is ready to face the world again.

Blossom - Regarded by many as the premier vegan fine dining establishment in NY, I was anxious to try it out to see if it could provide a diner on par with the quality of my favorite non-vegan spots. Since we didn't have reservations, we were told there would be a slight 15 minute wait for a table. We decided to stroll around the Chelsea block, when we stumbled upon the associated Blossom Bakery just across the street. As with the restaurant, all items are vegan, although they were so extensive and looked so good that we had to ask to double-check. They had a dizzying selection of cakes, pastries, and cookies. Adopting the attitude that one should eat dessert first cause you never know what the future might hold, we took the cashier’s advice and selected a huge, brightly-frosted, butterfly-shaped sugar cookie. Had I not known, I never would have guessed it was vegan; the cookie was moist and buttery (I don't want to know how) and the frosting was the perfect consistency. We finished “mmm”ing just as the text message came through announcing that our table was ready. Our appetites whetted, we returned to Blossom for the main event. The atmosphere was dim and swanky with a little bit of attitude. The menu has an impressive selection of dishes and represents multiple cuisines. It was very difficult to choose, and we could only narrow it down by eliminating the dishes we felt we could reasonably cook ourselves or get elsewhere (such as the African Peanut Stew). Several of the dishes feature seitan (pronounced “SAY-tan”, like, yes, that guy), which is just wheat gluten with the starch removed, and can be used to simulate meat. Personally, I am not a fan of fake meat. I don't think it bears any resemblance to meat, and frankly I'd just prefer not to pretend. But I'm in the minority, and so I leave it to La Végétalienne to cover that portion of the menu. (Hi, La Végétalienne here, pointing out that seitan is not some new-fangled meat substitute – it dates back to ancient China and has a delightfully chewy mouthfeel. It is also high in protein, always a plus, and contains no soy if that’s a concern for you. In other words, try it!) We start with the Sweet Potato Rolls; a raw wrap filled with shredded coconut, jicama, carrot, red and yellow peppers, scallions and avocado and paired with an almond ginger dipping sauce. Yum! The rolls are perfectly crisp, and the variety of ingredients works amazingly well together incorporating crunchy, creamy, savory and sweet into every bite. We debate drinking the delectable sauce. Next we sample the Field Greens Salad, a delightful mix of fresh baby greens, candied walnuts, tofu croutons, and grilled pears, tossed lightly with a shallot vinaigrette. Once again, the interplay of the ingredients made this dish an excellent starter. While alone the pears and walnuts could be too sweet, the shallot vinaigrette cut through the sugar. The crispy tofu was a welcome change from the traditional crouton; rather than simply soaking up dressing it added a little more substance and texture. For the main course, I wanted to stay on the light side. I opted for another appetizer; the Eggplant Rollatini with spinach, tofu ricotta, shiitake mushrooms, truffle oil, and vegan mozzarella in a housemade marinara. I'm normally not a fan of the fake cheeses, but the kitchen kept it as a minor portion of the dish, and I was quite pleased with the overall result. La Végétalienne selected the Port Wine Seitan; pan-seared seitan cutlets in a port wine and mushroom sauce, with garlic mashed potatoes, tempura onion, and sautéed spinach. She thought it was just what a “fancy restaurant meal” should be – rich and decadent and incredibly flavorful. We capped off the meal with a pot of lavender tea and a little dessert. I selected the signature Blossom Cheesecake with a berry reduction.Silken tofu (if that’s what they use?) does an admirable job of replacing cream cheese, and this was the perfect light texture. I didn't miss the Philly one bit. La Végétalienne chose the Coconut Lavender Crème Brulée which she declared the best dessert she has ever had, ever. Blossom certainly lived up to the hype. I walked out having a great meal, not just a great vegan meal.

The Library Bar at the Hudson - It's currently under renovation, but the already completed portions of this boutique hotel just up from Hell's Kitchen and around the corner from Central Park offer a glimpse at a promising stop. The Library Bar, as the name might imply, is decked out as an old school British reading room. Except that in addition to the massive collection of books, there is also a pool table covered in purple velvet and an intriguing series of photographs depicting cows in hats. They also mix a fabulous Negroni with the addition of basil to the traditional recipe.

Caselulla - Right. So I recognize that discussing an intimate wine and cheese bar/café in a vegan-focused piece might seem a tad out of place. And as you might now guess, this was my one non-vegan indiscretion. But it wasn't the cheese that did me in. Sometimes a girl just needs champagne and chocolate. I selected the Chocolate Cake and we each had a glass of Rosé Cava. As if the slab of chocolate decadence wasn't enough, they pour a small pitcher of fresh cream over top. While cake is often partnered with a tall glass of milk, I can honestly say that it's never occurred to me to dispense with the formalities of a glass and just combine the two. It does work quite well however. And meant I could fill my glass with pink bubbly instead!