Picholine

As you might have noticed, I eat a lot of chef's tasting menus. When I go out, I want to be wowed; I do not want something I could have made at home. And the tasting menu allows the chef to show what he or she believes is the best they can do. And while I've head a lot of good meals, its been a while since I had one that knocked my socks off. That is until Le Cuillère and I visited Picholine on Manhattan's Upper West Side. 
 
Uncharacteristically for NY, we didn't need collateral for a reservation, and the dining room was not uncomfortably packed. This made for a relaxing meal with the full attention of the staff. Picholine offers four dining options: a three course, five course, eight course, and ambitious twelve course menu. Apart from the twelve course menu, one welcomed feature was the ability for the diner to select from several options for each course. We decided on the eight course menu with the wine pairings, and relaxed over a series of delightful amuse bouches.

Le Cuillère and I selected some of the same courses, and a few different courses for variety. I began with the Smoked Sturgeon Caviar Panna Cotta, accented with beet carpaccio and house made rye crisps. The dish arrived in a porcelain covered bowl, the top lifted to reveal a beautiful a ribbon of smoke and a visually stunning presentation. And it was divine; the cold smoking imparted a whole new flavor to the caviar which paired exquisitely with the silkiness of the panna cotta. Le Cuillère selected the Crab and Avocado Roulade with Pickled Daikon, Citrus-Espelette Emulsion. In his characteristic understated style, Le Cuillere smiled and nodded appreciatively; I knew he was happy with his selection. He remarked on the pleasing contrast in texture between the crab/avocado and the daikon.

For the next course we had two choices of foie gras. I selected the Seared Style with Pickled Green Strawberries and Aged Balsamic Vinegar. Le Cuillère opted for the Foie Gras “Shabu Shabu” with sweet and sour duck bouillon. My version was very well executed, with the tartness of the pickled strawberries and the vinegar playing beautifully off the fatty liver. That said, I found myself looking longingly at Le Cuillère's bowl, where a pressed foie gras medallion was doused with a pitcher of steaming broth. The heat of the bouillon melted the foie gras, creating a silky soup the smell of which was intoxicating. Although I did find myself questioning my choice (in no way because of the quality) I suppose the dilemma of which foie gras to pick is an enviable struggle to have.

The pasta course arrived at the table and I knew I had done well this time. I ordered off the menu selected that day's special, a Hand Made Cavatelli with newly arrived Black Truffles shaved table side. A pristine bowl of delicate pasta was placed before me, while our host produced a tray of truffles and a shaver. By the time he finished I couldn't even see the pasta. So needless to say I was in heaven. The noodles were perfectly done, and the light pecorino sauce perfectly highlighted the truffles. Le Cuillère selected the Corn Risotto with Wild Mushrooms, Summer Truffle, and Pecorino. I had been intrigued by this combination, and the dish worked perfectly. The sweetness of the corn, along with the texture of the kernels worked well as the base of the risotto, while the truffle and cheese added a hint of earth and nut which made the dish both simple and wildly complex.

Neither of us could resist the Diver Sea Scallops with Asparagus Variations, Morels, and vin Jaune Sabayon. This dish was exceptionally well thought out. Consisting of a single scallop, it was so decadent, we found ourselves slicing it as though it were a filet. Morels and asparagus are a natural pairing and worked perfectly with the sweetness of the bivalve. 
 
Shockingly Le Cuillère resisted the option of steak, and we both chose the Thomas Farm Squab with Foie Gras Pain Perdu, Tokyo Turnips, and Fig-Chocolate Sauce. And once again, Picholine succeeded in taking a combination of ingredients which shouldn't work together and produced a wonderful course. The fig-chocolate sauce paired well with the gaminess of the meat. The foie gras rounded out the texture while the turnips added that needed hint of bitterness which kept the dish from being too rich. 
 
For the cheese course, Le Cuillère let the fromager select several samples from the cart, presented with accompaniments. I opted for the Spring Brook Farm Raclette. The fresh farm cheese was presented on a puffed wafer with maderia powder. A perfect two bit course bursting with freshness. Just enough to satisfy the desire for cheese without the heaviness of a platter. The cheese selections were thoughtful and very well balanced, with a clear eye toward showing the range of selections available should either of us choose to continue exploring that aspect of the menu.

By this point I realized I was so adsorbed with the food, I had forgotten to take pictures throughout most of the meal! Fortunately I remembered in time for the first dessert course, a Meyer Lemon Mousse with Strawberry Textures, Pistachio Financier, and Catskill Provisions Honey Granita. The presentation was so surprising I had to capture it. And it was every bit as delicious as it looked! Rather than a pot of mousse, the delicate ribbon allowed the diner to incorporate all the flavors and textures of the strawberry, pistachio, and granita.

The final course was a Dark Chocolate Brownie with Minted Pea Ice Cream, Bacon Meringue, Sweet Pea Crumble. From the moment I saw this I was intrigued; who would put peas with chocolate?! After the first bite however, I found myself wondering how it was I've never had peas and chocolate before. The brownie was only slightly sweet, and the depth of the chocolate was a brilliant foil for the brightness of the peas and mint. The combination allows the heaviness of a chocolate dessert transition easily to the lightness of summer. 
 

Dessert concluded, we relaxed over espresso and handmade chocolates and petit fours. The service was impeccable, attentive but not intrusive. The wine pairings were carefully selected and perfectly matched to each course. The quality of the food was not only exceptional, it was innovative original and artistically presented. If you are looking for a true culinary experience in NY without the hoopla that goes with it, make a point of adding Picholine to your list.