Thursday, February 23, 2012

Singapore: My Humble House

When it comes to international cuisine... I've been around.  I've consumed parts of animals I don't even want to think about, dined at establishments in foreign lands that would send a health inspector into cardiac arrest, and sampled the delicacies of countries I'll likely never visit.  But until recently, I've associated Chinese food with an act of desperation.  A guilty pleasure, if you will, of outlandishly fried and sauced proteins, wilted vegetables in gelatinous goo, the structurally unsound white paper boxes that contain them, and packets of duck sauce and mustard which appear to multiply like gremlins if you don't keep a watchful eye.  I've never had Chinese Cuisine.  Until, at least, I ventured to My Humble House in Singapore's Esplanade.

Entering the dining room is much like visiting a dinner party co-hosted by the Mad Hatter and Dr. Seuss.  The decor seamlessly incorporates elements of the modern and whimsical to create a scene that is both formal and enchanting.  A space where you feel you've tumbled down the rabbit hole to find a  place some how you've known all along.  Add into that the fabulous views of the Singapore marina and it elevates ambiance to a whole new level.

My Humble House draws on multiple styles of Chinese cookery, and the abundant seafood which Singapore has to offer plays a starring roll.  My friend and I had the good fortunate to visit during the Chinese New Year, in honor of which the restaurant featured an impressive array of tasting menus, as well as a la carte options.  Now the Ninja is, as you might guess, never one to shy away from multiple courses of deliciousness.  Unless, apparently she's severely jetlagged, in which case about 2 courses are all she can manage.  So my companion and I strategically broke up the menu to get a bit of a cross section.  As we perused the menu, we were presented with an artfully arranged pile of jerky strips on a pristine white tray accompanied by spicy dipping sauce in an oriental spoon.   Now this is certainly more interesting than your standard bread basket.  I snag a strip with my chopsticks and discover a delightful smoked pork with hints of sweetness, immediately followed by spice and garlic.  Think mini bacon on Asian steroids, and you'll come close.   We finally reach a decision: for me the fried shiitake mushrooms and the steamed garoupa fish; for him the fried lobster and wok seared prawns.



As we're waiting for course one, we've been commenting on the giant chopsticks which were included along with the standard set.  These are about 2 foot long and as thick as my ring finger.  So not your usual take out cast aways.  From across the room we hear a cacophony, and turn to see a group of ten locals on their feet with massive chopsticks in hand.  They begin vigorously attacking a bowl in front of them.  We learn from our waiter that this act is a New Year tradition. Like the stomping of grapes, the communal tossing of noodles is a custom which becons prosperity in the new year.  We're invited to join in, but as both of us are barely managing to keep vertical, we politely decline.

Fortunately, I'm rescued by my first course.  To say it defies expectations would be an understatement.  Three towers, each containing a lightly and perfectly fried shiitake, a little wasabi, another shiitake, a coin of fried lotus root, topped with a few kernels of fresh mango and chili.  Wow.  Seriously.  Wow. Shiitakes are tricky to begin with; one of the few mushrooms that must be fully cooked to actually digest.  It was perfectly tender.  The batter; like a gossamer web.  I'm in heaven.  Its Chinese.  It's extraordinary.  And there is nary an egg roll to be found.  Meanwhile my companion's lobster dish arrives.  Now, had you asked me a few days ago I'd have told you fried lobster was blasphemy and probably would have facilitated your burning at the nearest stake.  But, again, they achieved a level of perfection with something that requires a delicate touch.  Lobster is not forgiving.  You're operating in a very fine window between raw and over cooked.  So to pull it off while fried is not insignificant.  The sauce was a tad too sweet for my companion, but he still appreciated the overall effect. (This is probably the time to tell you that citrus is the thing for Chinese new year.  Think of it as a poinsettia you can cook with.  Oranges and their cousins adorn every building and are incorporated into the food for the occasion.)

Then came the second course.  I had a steamed garoupa over a bed of bitter greens with a ginger and tangerine infused broth. It was simple and lovely.  The fish was perfectly done; and the accouterments executed with precision and paired well with the fish.  Now if you recall earlier, I mentioned my friend had selected prawns for the second course.  He received lobster. Only a total moron complains about getting lobster.... and so he did not.  Unfortunately the preparation was a little too similar to his appetizer.  So while again, perfectly executed... still too sweet.  So much for diversification....

Be that as it may, we counted our first meal in Singapore a resounding success, and lament that a 13 hour time difference has rendered us incapable of celebrating like a local.  Alas.  But now I have a worthy goal for a future Chinese New Year.  And if you come at me with a bowl of General Tso's.... prepare for a throat punch.


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