Friday, October 12, 2012

When in Sri Lanka....

Formerly the center of the spice trade, Sri Lanka floats amongst the cultures of South Asia, yet is uniquely its own. Blending elements of Indian, Malay and Indonesian cultures Sri Lanka creates a unique experience, but is still struggling for its own identity. My reaction to my experiences in Colombo and its environs are somewhat mixed; I want very much to like it but the extreme air and noise pollution at times made this a challenge. That said, I did manage to find some gems which I am pleased to share with you here. 

Barefoot Cafe- Hidden off a back alley way Barefoot is an oasis in an otherwise conjested city. An extensive network of art and craft galleries, Barefoot also boasts a charming cafe in an outdoor courtyard. The menu is more continental than local cuisine, but had an impressive cross section of choices. I started with a plate of hummus and vegetables. While the hummus was a tad on the bland side the veggies were perfectly ripe and crisp. A welcome surprise since ordering raw vegetables can at times. I then moved on to a pasta dish which was one of the specials of the day. Crisp herbs and veggies in a light sauce, it was a great meal for the heat. It is the ambiance however, that makes Barefoot a worthwhile destination. For lack of a better description, its exactly the sort of place you hope you find when you're traveling. I could easily lose hours sitting in the shade with a cold Tiger beer and a good book.

Crescat Boulevard- As is typical for most of Asia, shopping centers boast a host of culinary offerings. I found myself paying multiple visits to Crescat. At Roots, the juice bar, you could quite literally get any fruit or vegetable you could think of run through a juicer. And the results were always excellent. I lament missing out on Avocado juice, and will remain on the look out for future opportunities. The remained of the food court boasted several good Indian spots, including an all vegetarian stand, traditional Sri Lankan “Tennessee” chicken, and a hot dog cart that was positively terrifying in the possible array of toppings.

Geragama Estate Tea plantation- I've been on a lot of beverage tours over the years. As an avid tea drinker however, I'd never been privy to the process that transforms a simple leave on a tree into the elixer in my cup. Until now. Stepping out of the car at Geragama, I'm nearly knocked over by the heavy aroma of roasted tea that fills the air. Its glorious. Stepping in side, we are greeted with a pot of tea to sample before embarking to see how it came to be. Ceylon is of course known the world over for its tea. Geragama is a raw manufacturing site; its teas are used as the base for blends developed by the well known “Ceylon” labels. Geragama does not sell this raw tea commercially; it is only available under the plantations own label at the processing center. Once we finish the tea, our tour begins with the arrival of baskets containing newly harvested tea leaves. The leaves are plucked by hand to ensure only the bud and the two youngest leaves are plucked. The plucked leaves are then weighed in, and first quality inspection is made. The leaf is then moved to the factory where they are withered using large blowers. The next step in the manufacturing process is cutting the leaves which releases the juices and begins the fermentation. After fermentation is completed, the leaf is fired, to lock in the flavor, to dry it and to improve the keeping qualities. Descending into the drying room truly is like walking into an oven on the decent. And while heat fortunately rises, its not that much cooler at ground level. Once the leaves are dried they are sorted based on color and particle size of the tea: Orange Pekoe (O.P); Pekoe (Pek.); Broken Orange Pekoe (B.O.P.); Broken Pekoe (B.P.); Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings (B.O.P.F.); Flowery Orange Pekoe (F.O.P); Flowery Broken Orange Pekoe (F.B.O.P.); and the Dust . Of this a small amount of tea remains for sale at the plantation; the vast majority is shipped of the the distributors to be bagged or blended into an ever increasing variety of tea. The quality was obvious, and very much worth the extra attention. I'll never see my basket of tea leaves in quite the same way.


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