26 February 2015

As I was walking home I came across a band outside playing Radiohead "Creep". Every time I hear that song I'm instantly transported to 1996 in Brussels sitting in my bedroom in Rue des Carlmelines.  I can feel it like it was yesterday. Every single time. 

25 February 2015

In celebration of Chinese New Year, Terminal 21 mall featured giant goldfish suspended from the ceiling, as well as a massive dragon... But that proved hard to do justice to with the IPhone. 

24 February 2015

A night out at our favorite restaurant. A tiny house down a back alley whose decor belies the quality of the food here. Hard to believe our favorite restaurant in Bangkok is an Italian joint...

23 February 2015

This is my view when I walk out of my office.  While I try to make a point of getting outside for a bit everyday, this day got away from me. Fortunately when I do make it out it's into this tiny oasis... Just enough to revive the soul before heading into the crowded city. 

22 February 2015

Walking at night down Soi 16, this shrine caught my eye.  Bangkok is full of spirit houses, but this one featuring the four faces of Buddha is a bit grand for such a quiet street.

 

Elizabeth's gone raw

As I've mentioned in the past, my best friend is vegan. So when a raw food vegan restaurant opened in DC, she was the obvious choice for a dining companion. Elizabeth's Gone Raw is unique in many ways. It is only opened for dinner one night a week. The menu is a fixed tasting and changes weekly. And everything served is entirely vegan and raw. While I was confident one could produce a high end vegan menu, I was curious to see what would happen when the entire act of cooking was thrown out the window. And I left not only satisfied but highly impressed!

The dining area is stunning; set in a row house and decorated in old world classic french style. Too much champagne and you might actually think you're in Versailles! Fortunately this wouldn't be a problem for us as the server permitted us to split a single wine pairing for a nominal additional charge. And excellent compromise which ensured we got the complete experience while still being able to drive home. While we waited for the serving to commence, we were treated to a basket of home made Kale Chips. Rather than bakes, these had been dehydrated, and the difference was noticeable. The chips were crunchy and maintained their texture as well as actually tasting like kale. This is not easy, as homemade chips go limp after a day or so, and the preservatives in the mass produced chips really affects the flavor of the green.

Before long, we were ready to begin. Please note that as I walk you through the courses, the menu is styled to reflect the dish's inspiration. So a course might be described as having meat, but this is purely a conceptual reference. First arrived an amuse of Roasted Cauliflower, with nigella seed, capers, mint and lardo. I never cease to be amazed by the complete transformation cauliflower undergoes when roasted. It's an entirely different vegetable and it is delicious. The accents rounded out the bite, the caper imparting a welcomed hint of brine. 

 

Next arrived a Tomato Saffron Soup with strawberry, carrot and fennel. This course was particularly interesting, combining several ingredients with very distinct flavors. That said, it was well balanced and unexpected. And a chilled soup is always a welcome break on a summer night!

 

When I saw the Crab Stuffed Squash Blossoms on the menu, I could not wait to try them. I love squash blossoms fried in the Italian style but hadn't tried them raw before. And I couldn't even imagine the vegan equivalent of crab. And while I can't honestly say that I know what it might actually be, I can tell you it was delicious, and actually did invoke crab with each bite. The presentation was stunning, and the accompanying bed of trumpet mushrooms, squash, and pecans provided much needed texture, while the green tomato vinaigrette added the right amount of bite.

 

To cleanse the palate we were presented with a Watermelon Hibiscus Sorbet with olive oil and sel gris.

Light and refreshing, it was the perfect segue into the main course; Kohlrabi & Heirloom Beet Ravioli with celery, basil, macadamia, sunflower shoots, spirulina, and wild garlic. Since pasta obviously requires cooking, it was paper thin slices of beet and kohlrabi which provided the pocket for the filling. It was an innovative approach and it worked well. The textures and flavors were so pleasing, I didn't miss the pasta or the cheese filling in the least.

Finally it was time for dessert: Blueberry Cheesecake. Once again, I was amazed that something so decadent could be created not only without dairy, but with out baking! The raw crust of coconut, almond and cashew was a perfect texture and considerably more flavorful than the tried and true graham cracker crust.

While the entire meal was delightful in it's own right, it was astounding when you think it was create with two very restrictive parameters. And while I am not sure I'll be trying something so ambitious myself, I will definitely be returning to Elizabeth's!

 

Picholine

As you might have noticed, I eat a lot of chef's tasting menus. When I go out, I want to be wowed; I do not want something I could have made at home. And the tasting menu allows the chef to show what he or she believes is the best they can do. And while I've head a lot of good meals, its been a while since I had one that knocked my socks off. That is until Le Cuillère and I visited Picholine on Manhattan's Upper West Side. 
 
Uncharacteristically for NY, we didn't need collateral for a reservation, and the dining room was not uncomfortably packed. This made for a relaxing meal with the full attention of the staff. Picholine offers four dining options: a three course, five course, eight course, and ambitious twelve course menu. Apart from the twelve course menu, one welcomed feature was the ability for the diner to select from several options for each course. We decided on the eight course menu with the wine pairings, and relaxed over a series of delightful amuse bouches.

Le Cuillère and I selected some of the same courses, and a few different courses for variety. I began with the Smoked Sturgeon Caviar Panna Cotta, accented with beet carpaccio and house made rye crisps. The dish arrived in a porcelain covered bowl, the top lifted to reveal a beautiful a ribbon of smoke and a visually stunning presentation. And it was divine; the cold smoking imparted a whole new flavor to the caviar which paired exquisitely with the silkiness of the panna cotta. Le Cuillère selected the Crab and Avocado Roulade with Pickled Daikon, Citrus-Espelette Emulsion. In his characteristic understated style, Le Cuillere smiled and nodded appreciatively; I knew he was happy with his selection. He remarked on the pleasing contrast in texture between the crab/avocado and the daikon.

For the next course we had two choices of foie gras. I selected the Seared Style with Pickled Green Strawberries and Aged Balsamic Vinegar. Le Cuillère opted for the Foie Gras “Shabu Shabu” with sweet and sour duck bouillon. My version was very well executed, with the tartness of the pickled strawberries and the vinegar playing beautifully off the fatty liver. That said, I found myself looking longingly at Le Cuillère's bowl, where a pressed foie gras medallion was doused with a pitcher of steaming broth. The heat of the bouillon melted the foie gras, creating a silky soup the smell of which was intoxicating. Although I did find myself questioning my choice (in no way because of the quality) I suppose the dilemma of which foie gras to pick is an enviable struggle to have.

The pasta course arrived at the table and I knew I had done well this time. I ordered off the menu selected that day's special, a Hand Made Cavatelli with newly arrived Black Truffles shaved table side. A pristine bowl of delicate pasta was placed before me, while our host produced a tray of truffles and a shaver. By the time he finished I couldn't even see the pasta. So needless to say I was in heaven. The noodles were perfectly done, and the light pecorino sauce perfectly highlighted the truffles. Le Cuillère selected the Corn Risotto with Wild Mushrooms, Summer Truffle, and Pecorino. I had been intrigued by this combination, and the dish worked perfectly. The sweetness of the corn, along with the texture of the kernels worked well as the base of the risotto, while the truffle and cheese added a hint of earth and nut which made the dish both simple and wildly complex.

Neither of us could resist the Diver Sea Scallops with Asparagus Variations, Morels, and vin Jaune Sabayon. This dish was exceptionally well thought out. Consisting of a single scallop, it was so decadent, we found ourselves slicing it as though it were a filet. Morels and asparagus are a natural pairing and worked perfectly with the sweetness of the bivalve. 
 
Shockingly Le Cuillère resisted the option of steak, and we both chose the Thomas Farm Squab with Foie Gras Pain Perdu, Tokyo Turnips, and Fig-Chocolate Sauce. And once again, Picholine succeeded in taking a combination of ingredients which shouldn't work together and produced a wonderful course. The fig-chocolate sauce paired well with the gaminess of the meat. The foie gras rounded out the texture while the turnips added that needed hint of bitterness which kept the dish from being too rich. 
 
For the cheese course, Le Cuillère let the fromager select several samples from the cart, presented with accompaniments. I opted for the Spring Brook Farm Raclette. The fresh farm cheese was presented on a puffed wafer with maderia powder. A perfect two bit course bursting with freshness. Just enough to satisfy the desire for cheese without the heaviness of a platter. The cheese selections were thoughtful and very well balanced, with a clear eye toward showing the range of selections available should either of us choose to continue exploring that aspect of the menu.

By this point I realized I was so adsorbed with the food, I had forgotten to take pictures throughout most of the meal! Fortunately I remembered in time for the first dessert course, a Meyer Lemon Mousse with Strawberry Textures, Pistachio Financier, and Catskill Provisions Honey Granita. The presentation was so surprising I had to capture it. And it was every bit as delicious as it looked! Rather than a pot of mousse, the delicate ribbon allowed the diner to incorporate all the flavors and textures of the strawberry, pistachio, and granita.

The final course was a Dark Chocolate Brownie with Minted Pea Ice Cream, Bacon Meringue, Sweet Pea Crumble. From the moment I saw this I was intrigued; who would put peas with chocolate?! After the first bite however, I found myself wondering how it was I've never had peas and chocolate before. The brownie was only slightly sweet, and the depth of the chocolate was a brilliant foil for the brightness of the peas and mint. The combination allows the heaviness of a chocolate dessert transition easily to the lightness of summer. 
 

Dessert concluded, we relaxed over espresso and handmade chocolates and petit fours. The service was impeccable, attentive but not intrusive. The wine pairings were carefully selected and perfectly matched to each course. The quality of the food was not only exceptional, it was innovative original and artistically presented. If you are looking for a true culinary experience in NY without the hoopla that goes with it, make a point of adding Picholine to your list.