Tell
anyone you're going to Kenya and the response is invariably the same:
“Oh, you must go to Carnivore!” The only restaurant for which Kenya is
internationally known, Carnivore is a Churrscari style restaurant
located just outside the Nairobi National Park that gained fame decades
ago for serving on spits the animals you'd just seen frolicking in the
park. Needless to say, that is no longer the case. Today its more akin
to Fugo de Chao than Marlon Brando's dinner party in “The Freshman.”
Fortunately for the hungry traveler, however, Kenya boasts a range of
cultural influences. So I decided to visit a broad cross section for a
better sense of what Nairobi has to offer.
Thai Chi-
Asian food is quite popular in Kenya; options for Indian, Sushi,
Chinese, and Thai abound. Located in the Sarova Stanley, Thai Chi does
an incredible job recreating Thailand in the heart of Nairobi. The décor
is upscale and flawless in its detail. The table setting includes all
the traditional condiments one would expect at a proper Thai
establishment. We start with an order of spring rolls; I loved that they were nearly mini adaptations, but found them a little over cooked. The Papaya salad on the other hand was quite good; the julienne vegetables crisp and the the dressing light and balanced. I selected the vegetable stir fry,
and was pleasantly surprised with the result. The composition was an
excellent variety and everything was fresh; not a canned or wilty veggie
to be found. The sauce was a combination of light and dark soy that was
well balanced and not at all gooey. It wasn't quite up to my taste in
terms of spice, but with the array of Thai spices and chilies on the
table I was able to satisfy my desire for extra heat.
Talisman- In
the outskirts of Nairobi, Talisman occupies a secluded bungalow in the
Karen district. A popular haunt of expats from across the spectrum,
Talisman offers a welcome respite from the congestion of the city.
There's a lively bar area in the front; dining in the rear over looking a
central court yard.With winter on the way there was a bit of a chill in
the evening, so small individual fire-pits were placed by the cafe
tables. The venue also doubles as an art gallery, featuring original
works by local artists. The menu features quite a bit of British
standards, with a sizable portion of ethnic favorites from Thailand,
India, and the Mediterranean thrown in. Having visited Thai Chi earlier
in the day, I decided against some of the thai dishes and opted to
select a few small plates. I was intrigued by the paw paw salad,
which was described as a fresh slaw in a light vinegar based dressing. I
had no idea what a paw paw was, but I was excited by the possibility of
something new. When it arrived, I discovered to my amusement that paw
paw is papaya, and what appeared before me was a replica of the green
papaya salad I had enjoyed earlier in the day. Ah well. Fortunately it's
a favorite of mine, and frankly, was better than I've had at many Thai
restaurants. The Lentil Falafel was
an interesting and welcome take on the classic. Substituting the
lentils for chickpeas produced greater texture variations in the patty
and the addition of cardamon gave it a bit of a kick. The Feta and Coriander samosas
were exceptional. Wrapped in a wonton wrapper rice the traditional
heavier dough provided a wonderful crispness. Yet miraculously the feta
and coriander filling was perfectly fresh; not hint of melting or
sogginess. Paired with a sweet tomato chutney, it was the ideal light
evening snack. I capped off the evening with a pot of lemon grass tea,
and was thrilled to discover they actually used fresh lemon grass
steeped in a french press something I've only seen done in Thailand. As
the evening wore on more accents and languages filled the air. Talisman
was clearly an international meeting spot and it was interesting to see
the hodgepodge of people in Kenya, while enjoying a truly wonderful meal
in a very peaceful setting.
Utamaduni--
While in Nairobi, I utilized the services of Tour Africa Safaris to see
some of the sites, and I would heartily recommend them should you ever
find yourself in Kenya. During a midday excursion, we had just finished a
visit to the Giraffe Sanctuary and were ready for lunch. Our driver
took us to an out of the way spot off a bumpy dirt road, which we never
would have otherwise found. It also boasts a very extensive shop of high
end souvenirs, and clearly derives its business from the tourists who
frequent the area's game parks and attractions. While spots of this
nature can be hit or miss, Utamaduni
was a very pleasant surprise. Tables were set up in an outdoor
courtyard area, surrounded by trees and flowers; our table was
positioned next to a bird feeder which attracted a host of companions
throughout the meal. I began with a garden salad, which proved to be a
delightful medley of vegetables accented with chickpeas. I then took my
chances with the Vegetable curry. During the construction of the
railroad, an influx of Indian immigrants (also British subjects) came to
Kenya to lay the tracks. As a result, Indian influences are highly
prevalent in Kenyan cuisine. I've shied away from Indian food over the
years, but it became fairly apparent that I was going to have to take
the plunge, particularly if I planned to keep vegetarian for most of the
trip. So plunge I did, and this was an excellent pool in which to jump.
I typically have associated Indian food with being very high in oil.
But this wasn't at all; it was heavy on vegetables with the sauce was
robust clinging to the veggies and rice instead of forming a slick
coating. Sitting with in the sun with a cold Tusker, I began to think I
may have to reevaluate my premises....
Tamarind Nairobi- The
Tamarind Restaurant group manages several restaurants in Kenya, to
included the previously aforementioned Carnivore. The Nairobi location
of Tamarind however specializes in seafood and is reported to be the
best restaurant in the city flying in its stock daily from the coast. So
naturally, I had to check it out. The décor is a bit dated, but the
menu more than makes up for it. While we reviewed our options, the
waiter stopped with a tray containing some 10 kinds of homemade bread. I
selected a bread twist and a pumpernickel roll to help assist my
decision making process. The selection and preparation of seafood was
truly impressive, and it took a while to narrow down my options but my
guiding premise was to get something I couldn't get at home. I elected
to start with the tree tomato salad. I had no
idea what a tree tomato was, but I was determine to find out! Spoiler:
It's pretty much a tomato. And while that might normally have been a
source of disappointment, the presentation ensured that this tomato was
like nothing I've ever had. The tomato had been poached to remove the
skin, shocked to stop the cooking and keep it firm, and then dusted in
cacao. It sounds weird, I know, but it somehow worked. Presented along
side an arrangement of beets, blood orange, and avocado puree, it was an
extremely inventive dish and not what I expected to find. For the main
event I ordered the Kenyan fresh water tilapia prepared swahili style.
The fish was lightly grilled, then topped with a sauce of coconut milk
and tomato. The combination of flavors was lovely, and paired very well
with the delicate white fish. When a meal is this impressive, you simply
have to order dessert. We opted for the trio of crème brulee:
vanilla, espresso, and Amarulla served in individual mini ramekins.
Heaven. Each one was a delight, but I'd have to say the espresso was my
favorite. A little camomile tea, and I'm ready for bed.
Blanco-
Located in the Galleria Shopping area in the outskirts of Nairobi,
Blanco specializes in a modern take on local cuisine. The contemporary
atmosphere is a pleasant contrast to the dusty side streets, and I order
a martini while I peruse the menu. I select the Saladi ya Mboga, alight
salad of cucumber, carrots, onions, lettuce with fresh lemon juice
dressing. The ingredients are basic, but so fresh that its perfect in
its simplicity. For the main course I opt for the Mboga Swahili,
mixture of vegetables and potatoes and arrowroots in coconut milk
cooked the coastal style. The stewed vegetables were perfectly tender,
and the curry style sauce was flavorful and delicious. The dish was
heavily garnished with cashews, however, most of which I opted to
remove. Along side I decided to try the Sima, a brown or white polenta prepared
from maize meal or millet commonly known as Ugali. Unlike traditional
cornmeal polenta that is popular in the west, this was extremely dense
and did not pair well with the dish. But alas, if you don't try you
don't know....
The Exchange Bar-
There are many bars in Nairobi, and a great many of the in hotels and
clubs throughout the city. And while I did not do an extensive survey,
the Exchange bar in the Sarova Stanley is worth commenting on. The
oldest hotel in Nairobi, the building formerly housed the country's
stock exchange and this theme is prevalent throughout. The décor is
quintessential British colonial style; dark wood, comfortable leather
chairs, and vast network or swinging paddle fans adorning the ceiling.
It's exactly the sort of place that makes you crave gin. Despite being
in a hotel, the bar was overwhelmingly dominated by locals relaxing
after a day or work or out for a special occasion. Live jazz completed
the mood and made it a favorite spot to start or end the evening.
